
Yes, a car can charge its when the engine is running but the car is not moving, provided that all electrical devices other than the engine are turned off. However, the charging efficiency is poor, and it takes a long time to fully charge the battery. The instantaneous power consumption during car startup is very high, and it takes a considerable amount of time to replenish the battery's charge. The alternator can charge the battery as long as it is working, and the power source for the alternator comes from the engine. Once the car is started, the engine begins to operate, transmitting power to the alternator via a belt, thus initiating the charging process for the battery. It is important to note that the charging efficiency differs between idling and driving conditions. When the vehicle is in motion, pressing the accelerator increases the engine's speed, which in turn provides more power to the alternator. As a result, the alternator generates more electricity, leading to a higher charging rate for the battery.

I've experienced my car dying several times. It's true that idling the engine can charge the battery, but the efficiency is quite low. The alternator relies on the engine to spin, and at idle speed, the RPM is too low - the charging speed is actually slower than just driving around for a couple of laps. One winter when my car sat too long and the battery died, I deliberately idled it for half an hour, but still had difficulty starting the next day. The most annoying part about this charging method is that it harms the car and wastes fuel. At idle speed, gasoline doesn't burn completely, leading to serious carbon buildup issues. Plus, some cities now fine drivers for prolonged idling in residential areas. If you really need emergency charging, I recommend gently pressing the accelerator periodically to raise the RPM to around 1500 - that works much better.

As someone who frequently deals with cars, I have to say that idling to charge the is actually a compromise. When the engine is running, the alternator does generate current, but this current primarily ensures the normal operation of the vehicle's electronic systems, with only the excess being directed to charge the battery. The issue lies in the limited power generation at idle; older cars might only charge a few ampere-hours per hour. Another point many people aren't aware of is that if the battery suffers from sulfation or has aging plates, this slow charging could potentially worsen the battery's condition. Therefore, unless absolutely necessary, it's better to drive around for ten kilometers, which not only charges the battery but also lubricates the engine components.

Actually, I encounter this situation every time I help friends with issues. After the vehicle starts, the alternator begins charging, but the effect is really not great if the car remains stationary. The main reason is that at idle speed, the alternator's output power is low—it's like using a dropper to fill a bucket. A more practical approach is to turn on all electrical devices in the car after starting, such as the air conditioner and headlights, to make the alternator operate at full load. This way, the charging current will actually increase. However, it's worth noting that continuous idling for over half an hour can cause significant damage to the catalytic converter, and the exhaust pipe is prone to accumulating water and rusting.

Over the years of repairing cars, I've observed a phenomenon: many car owners believe that idling can quickly charge the , only to waste gasoline in vain. In reality, the charging efficiency during idling is less than 30% of that while driving, because the alternator's rotation speed directly determines the charging power. Additionally, it's important to note the impact of temperature—charging while stationary in winter is even less effective, as low temperatures slow down the chemical reactions in the battery. If you must charge the battery while stationary, it's advisable to turn off all electrical devices in the car. It's best to turn off the engine after half an hour and check if the battery terminals are heating up. If they're hot to the touch, it indicates an issue with the charging circuit that requires repair.

Last time my car died, I conducted a specific experiment: using professional tools to monitor charging data during idling and driving conditions. The results were clear – ten minutes of driving charged the battery as much as over forty minutes of idling. The key factor is the alternator rotor speed, which only reaches around 800 RPM at idle but easily exceeds 3000 RPM when driving. Moreover, prolonged idling can lead to insufficient lubrication on cylinder walls and accelerated piston ring wear. I've since learned my lesson – if the battery is truly failing, it's better to replace it or use an external charger for safety and convenience. Modern smart chargers can even address sulfation issues.


