
Because the clutch is released too quickly, causing the engine to stall. Here is a relevant introduction about Subject 2: 1. Overview: Subject 2, also known as the small road test, is part of the motor vehicle driver's license . It is the abbreviation for the field driving skill test. For small cars (C1 and C2), the test items include five mandatory components: reverse parking, parallel parking, stopping and starting on a slope, right-angle turns, and curve driving (commonly known as S-turns). Some regions also include a sixth item: high-speed card collection. 2. Teaching aids: Teaching software: Students can learn traffic regulations through driver simulation test software on mobile or computer devices. Teaching books: "Safe Driving Starts Here," compiled by the Ministry of Transport of the People's Republic of China. Driving schools may provide learning materials uniformly, or students may purchase them at their own expense.

Releasing the clutch too quickly in Subject 2 can indeed cause the engine to stall, which is related to how the engine works. Starting a manual transmission car is like dancing a duet—if you lift the clutch too abruptly, the engine can't keep up and just quits. I made this mistake often when I first started practicing. Later, I learned that when the left foot reaches the vibration point, it should hover as if stepping on cotton, while the right foot gently applies some throttle. Once the car starts moving, slowly release the clutch completely. This is especially crucial for hill starts—when you feel the car shaking intensely, keep the left foot steady, lightly press the throttle with the right foot until the tachometer reaches 1,500 RPM, and then release the handbrake. Mastering this clutch-throttle coordination will basically eliminate stalling. Most stalls happen because the left foot isn't controlled or the throttle isn't applied in time. Practice finding that semi-engaged vibration point, and it'll become smooth.

Driving instructors always yell 'release the clutch slowly' for a good reason. The clutch acts like a switch between the engine and the wheels. Releasing it completely is equivalent to suddenly engaging the power, which can stall the engine if the RPM isn't high enough. I've seen students release the clutch too quickly while reversing into a parking spot, causing the car to jerk and stall. Remember to release the clutch in three steps: first, quickly lift to the semi-engaged point (where the car body vibrates), then lift millimeter by millimeter slowly, and only fully release once the car moves steadily. The method veteran drivers use—keeping their heels fixed on the floor and adjusting with just their toes—really works, as it allows precise control over the clutch travel. Don't panic during the test; if you stall, remember to shift to neutral first before restarting the engine. Starting directly in gear will result in an immediate fail, which would be a shame.

Release the clutch completely and the engine will stall! Especially when practicing hill starts as a beginner, if you release the clutch too quickly, you'll hear a 'click' sound, and the light on the dashboard will light up—super embarrassing. The principle is simple: the engine has to overcome the resistance of a stationary vehicle, just like how you might strain your back if you suddenly lift a heavy box. During the semi-engagement phase, the engine gears just barely grip the wheels, and that's when you need to give it gas to gain power. Later, I figured out a trick: on flat roads, release the clutch until the car shakes, then hold it there, press the accelerator until the tachometer rises half a notch, and then continue releasing. For hill starts, before releasing the handbrake, rev the accelerator with your right foot to 2000 RPM and hold it steady, then slowly lift your left foot—this trick works every time. Actually, exam cars have their idle speed adjusted higher, making them less likely to stall.

When the clutch is fully depressed, the engine disconnects from the wheels. If you suddenly release it completely, the engine—dragging the heavy car body—will gasp for breath like being choked and stall. The key is to find the semi-engagement point—the position where you feel the steering wheel vibrate as you lift the clutch. At this moment, the drive gears have just begun to engage with the wheels, and you need to give the engine a 'boost' by tapping the accelerator with your right foot. When teaching my cousin to drive, I had him wear thin-soled shoes to better feel the pedals: during startup, lift your left foot to the point where the tachometer needle slightly dips, hold it there, then gently tap the accelerator with your right foot. Once the tachometer rises, fully release the left foot, and the car will move smoothly. This method is more intuitive than memorizing the 'fast-stop-slow' three-word mantra.

When I first started driving, I stalled on every test item in the driving test's second stage. The instructor said the core issue was that the engine's idle power was too weak, and fully releasing the clutch was like asking the engine to 'pull a truck barehanded.' Later, I learned that without the right foot pressing the accelerator, the left foot should only release the clutch up to the semi-engaged position—the final part of the clutch travel must be released with the help of the throttle. A handy tip: when the steering wheel shakes, don't rush to release the clutch completely; hold it steady for two seconds until the car picks up speed before fully releasing. Also, practice cars and test cars may have different clutch depths, so before the test, step on the clutch a few times to find the critical point. Remember how high to lift it until it shakes, and during the test, on this muscle memory—it won't let you down.


