
The reasons why the Magotan's trunk won't open include improper operation, damaged control box, or wiring failure. Here are the detailed explanations: 1. Improper operation: Incorrect operation may cause the tailgate to fail to open. For example, some electric tailgates may require shifting to P gear, turning off the engine, and unlocking the doors before opening. Some tailgates may malfunction or enter a memory learning state if the button is pressed for too long during operation. 2. Damaged control box: Issues with the control box, which serves as the 'computer' control center for the electric tailgate, may prevent it from receiving switch commands, resulting in the tailgate failing to open. 3. Wiring failure: Faults in power lines, control lines, or adapter lines may cause disconnection, leading to a lack of power or signal and preventing the tailgate from opening.

















My old Magotan also had this issue before - pressing the trunk button got no response, just an annoying buzzing sound. After inspection, the problem turned out to be with the lock block motor, likely due to poor wire contact or gear jamming. I tried manually opening the trunk using the emergency release cable inside the car and noticed obvious friction noise from the motor area when the lid popped open. Later found leaves stuck in the guide channel after removing the trim panel - the excessive resistance caused the motor to vibrate. Never force the handle in such cases as it may deform the latch. Recommend trying mechanical unlocking with the key first. If that fails, inspect the entire lock assembly. DIYers should disconnect the negative terminal first and handle those delicate cable connectors gently during disassembly.

If the trunk is buzzing and won't open, it's mostly a lock system issue. I just dealt with a similar problem: pull out the key and listen near the trunk to confirm the motor is running but lacks power. Lift the trunk liner and feel the motor surface—if it's hot, it indicates prolonged stalling. A temporary fix is to give a few hard slaps near the latch; sometimes this can shake loose the stuck mechanism. Important reminder: don't repeatedly press the remote button at this time, as burning out the motor coil isn't worth it. If slapping opens the door, remember to apply some white lithium grease to the rails. Magotan owners who frequently use the trunk should pay special attention to cleaning the guide channels, as accumulated dust and sand can easily cause this type of failure.

The buzzing noise from the trunk is most likely caused by a stuck locking motor. I once encountered this issue after rainy weather and found it was due to water seepage through the rubber seal causing the lock mechanism to rust and jam. As an emergency solution, have someone in the back seat lie down and crawl into the trunk to manually trip the emergency release mechanism with a screwdriver from the inside. Remember to empty the trunk before attempting this, or you might strain your back when climbing in. For a long-term fix, check that the trunk drain holes aren't blocked and apply some rust remover to the lock tongue annually. This common issue with vehicles isn't hard to address - the motor costs just over 200 yuan on Taobao, and those with DIY skills can replace it themselves in about half an hour. For safety's sake though, it's recommended to have the shop check the circuit voltage, as voltage fluctuations can also cause motor abnormalities.

When encountering a situation where the trunk won't open with a buzzing sound, focus on three key areas: First, check the bending point of the trunk wiring harness, as frequent opening and closing can cause insulation damage and short circuits. Second, inspect the manual emergency release cable mechanism, where aged steel cables may get stuck in the conduit. Of course, the lock mechanism itself could also be faulty. During repairs, I've found that some vehicles experience this issue due to improperly bundled wiring harnesses during aftermarket reverse camera installation, where jolting causes wires to tighten and restrict the lock's movement. A handy trick is to have someone press down on the trunk lid while operating the switch, as reducing mechanical resistance can sometimes allow it to pop open smoothly. If all else fails, use a diagnostic scanner to read fault codes - last year's repaired Magotan was caused by the system misinterpreting collision signals triggering electronic lockout. Extra caution is required when handling such electronic faults.

I've fixed this issue on seven or eight Magotans. The buzzing sound indicates the motor is working but the drive mechanism is obstructed. Common causes include sand and silt accumulation from high-pressure car wash jets hitting the lock mechanism, or inadequate repair after a previous rear-end collision. Last week, I encountered an interesting case where long-term storage of heavy items in the trunk deformed the bracket. Diagnostic recommendations follow three steps: first, measure if the motor's power supply voltage is stable; then, dismantle the lock mechanism to inspect worm gear wear; finally, check for loose screws on the latch base. Special reminder: pay attention to the trunk soundproofing sponge, as it can absorb water, expand, and push against the lock rod. Address the problem early—delaying may lead to expensive door module repairs.


