
Flange plate, referred to as flange, is a general term. It usually refers to a disk-shaped metal body with several fixing holes around its perimeter for connecting other components. This part is widely used in machinery, resulting in various shapes and forms. As long as it resembles one, it's called a flange plate, with its name originating from the English word 'flange'. Below is additional information: Detailed introduction: Internationally, there are two main systems for pipe flange standards: the European pipe flange system represented by the German DIN (including the former Soviet Union) and the American pipe flange system represented by the ANSI pipe flange. In addition, there is the Japanese JIS pipe flange, but it is generally only used in public utilities within petrochemical plants and has relatively little international influence.

A car flange is essentially a metal disc installed between the wheel hub and the axle hub. I've used this when modifying wheels before—it's mainly used to adjust the spacing between the wheel and the car body. For example, if your wheels sit too far inward and look underwhelming, adding a flange can push them outward, giving the car a much more aggressive side profile. Don’t underestimate this small metal disc—material quality matters a lot. I use forged aluminum alloy, which is lightweight yet strong enough to prevent vibrations at high speeds. Before installation, you must carefully measure the original car’s specs; choosing the wrong thickness could cause rubbing against the fender. Also, ensure the bolt hole pattern matches the car’s original specs exactly, or it won’t fit. After modification, you’ll need to redo the wheel balancing, or the steering wheel may shake.

Wheel spacers are quite common in auto repair shops. They are metal discs placed between the wheel and the hub. They serve three main purposes: first, they allow fine-tuning of the wheel track for better wheel protrusion alignment; second, they can prevent certain tire models from rubbing against the suspension; third, they help adjust positioning when upgrading to larger rims. During installation, it's crucial to clean the contact surfaces between the hub and the wheel thoroughly, otherwise wobbling may occur. Many people overlook the tightening sequence of the bolts - it must be done diagonally in three stages with gradually increasing torque. I've seen too many cases of wheels flying off due to broken bolts. Also, cheap low-quality spacers can deform over time. For safety's sake, don't skimp on those few hundred dollars.

Every car enthusiast who's into modifications knows about wheel spacers. Don't underestimate this circular metal disc—it plays a crucial role. They mainly come in two materials: cast aluminum and forged aluminum, with performance modifications typically using 7075 aerospace-grade forged aluminum spacers. Common thickness ranges from 15-30mm, and the choice depends on the wheel's ET value. The most noticeable effect after installation is achieving a flush fit between the wheels and fenders, creating that perfect lowered stance. However, it's essential to match spacer thickness with appropriate bolt lengths—last time I installed 20mm spacers on my Civic, the stock bolts were too short, so I had to get custom extended ones. Regular torque checks are vital, and retightening before track days is a must.

Wheel spacers primarily alter the wheel mounting position. The factory-designed wheel track may not be ideal, and spacers can be used for adjustment. There are two common types: center bore mounting and stud-type structures. Before installation, it's essential to check the flatness of the contact surfaces between the hub and spacer – never use ones with sand holes or burrs. My friend witnessed the worst case at a suburban repair shop: using low-quality spacers caused the bolt holes to tear at high speed, sending the wheel flying into a roadside rice field. It's recommended to choose models with anti-rotation teeth for added safety. After modification, the tires will protrude slightly outward, so be mindful of mud and water splashing onto the car body during rainy days. Additionally, some regions strictly inspect spacer modifications during annual vehicle inspections, so it's important to research local regulations beforehand.

The flange is actually a connecting piece between the wheel and the bearing. For ordinary cars, adding flange plates is mainly to expand the wheel track and improve the visual effect. Recently, I helped my neighbor install 25mm flanges on his , and the effect was immediate: the tires, which originally retracted into the wheel arches, moved outward, making the whole vehicle look much more domineering. When choosing, it's important to distinguish the center hole diameter, as German cars have larger center holes than Japanese cars. Also, note that for every 5mm increase in flange thickness, the load on the wheel hub bearing increases by one level, so off-road vehicles are best suited with thickened types. During installation, use a torque wrench to tighten the screws step by step, and after installation, drive 500 kilometers before returning to the shop to recheck the tightness of the screws.


