
Abnormal noise when braking in place can be caused by the following reasons: 1. Use of low-quality or overly hard brake pads: If low-quality or overly hard brake pads are used, they may produce a squeaking sound when rubbing against the brake disc during braking. Therefore, it is essential to use high-quality brake pads when replacing them. 2. Presence of sand or foreign objects between the brake pads and brake disc: During normal driving, it is inevitable to pass through some complex road conditions. Due to the unique design of disc brakes, some sand or foreign objects may enter between the brake pads and the brake disc, which can also cause abnormal noise during braking.

My car had the same issue a while ago, it would make a squeaking noise when braking while stationary. I specifically went to the 4S shop to have it checked, and the technician said it was mainly due to the metal particles in the brake pads being too hard, especially when the car was cold just after starting. This happens most often during rainy seasons when the rusted brake discs and damp brake pads rub together, creating a particularly harsh sound. If newly replaced brake pads still make noise, it's likely they haven't been properly broken in—just drive about 80 to 100 kilometers, and the noise should go away. However, if it's a sharp metallic grinding sound, it might be the wear limit indicator metal piece signaling that it's time to replace the brake pads. If the caliper doesn't retract properly, even after releasing the brake, the pads may still be touching the disc, causing a continuous rustling sound. Regular checks are really important; last time, I avoided damaging the brake disc by replacing the noisy pads in time.

Last time I helped my neighbor check their car, it was the same situation - squeaking when braking while stationary. It's especially noticeable on rainy days, right? A layer of surface rust forms on the brake discs, and when the brake pads press against them, they make that dry, grating sound. In automatic transmission cars when in D gear with the brake pedal pressed, the brake discs and pads are actually in a state of slight friction, so some minor vibration noise is normal. For older cars, pay special attention to whether the caliper guide pins lack lubrication - if they're stuck, it can cause poor return movement. If there's squeaking from the drum brakes at the rear wheels, it's likely rusted brake drums struggling against the shoes. A quick fix is to sand down the chamfered edges of the brake pads, but that's just treating the symptoms. The key is identifying the type of abnormal noise - uniform friction sounds are tolerable, but if it's a sharp screeching sound, get it checked at a shop immediately.

My old car had a similar issue - the brakes squeaked like a mouse during cold starts. The mechanic took it apart and found the grease on the brake pad shims had completely burned out, causing the metal backing plate to rub directly against the caliper. The auto-hold system also produced a faint electric buzzing sound mixed with mechanical noise. It became especially noticeable after the rainy season, with rust debris embedded in the brake pads causing a creaking sound with every press. The solution was quite simple: grind off the hardened layer on the edges of the brake pads and reapply special grease to the guide pins. However, if you notice uneven brake pad wear, it's likely a problem with the caliper piston. Here's a professional testing method: lift the car and rotate the tire to check if the wheel speed sensor is making interference noise from metal debris.

A friend's car also makes a clicking sound when braking while stationary. After inspection with a stethoscope, the technician said the issue was due to step-like wear on the edge of the brake disc, causing friction with the old pads before new ones were installed. A failed adjustment mechanism in drum brakes can also produce a spring-stretching sound. There was one particularly classic case where the caliper bracket bolts were loose, causing a clunking noise with every brake application. Another issue is air trapped in the brake hydraulic system, which can cause abnormal pedal feedback. For older cars, it's advisable to check the vacuum booster pump's seal, as air leaks can produce a hissing sound during pressurization. Be cautious with aftermarket brake pads—I've seen cases where they gouged grooves into the disc. For safety, it's best to have professional equipment perform the inspection.

Last month during , I specifically asked the technician about this issue. He said the most common cause is the material of the brake pads—copper fibers in semi-metallic pads tend to produce high-frequency squealing. Especially after washing the car when the brake rotors are wet, combined with ceramic brake pads, the noise can be as unpleasant as nails on a chalkboard. Experienced mechanics will remove the brake pads, grind a 45-degree bevel on the edges, and apply anti-seize paste to the slide rails. Actually, the electric parking brake also makes a clicking sound from the motor engagement when operating, which is normal. If you hear a whistling noise like a bamboo flute, you should check the flatness of the brake rotor surface. The most awkward situation is when a small stone gets stuck between the rotor and pad, producing a very crisp sound. Regularly cleaning the accumulated dust in the wheel hubs can prevent 80% of abnormal noises.


