
Compressor failure can be caused by the following situations: 1. Winding short circuit, open circuit, and winding grounding to the casing: These faults are caused by the motor part of the compressor. When an open circuit occurs, the power supply is normal, but the compressor does not work. In cases of short circuit or grounding, the protector trips or the fuse blows when power is applied. If there is a slight inter-turn short circuit in the winding, the compressor can still operate, but its temperature becomes very high, the operating current is very large, and the thermal protector will trip shortly after operation. A multimeter can be used to check for open circuits and winding grounding to the casing. Slight winding short circuits are difficult to determine and should be judged based on current measurements. 2. Compressor vibration and noise: This often occurs during . Generally, it does not significantly affect refrigeration performance, but users may feel it is abnormal. The main causes include contact between pipes and the casing, detachment of damping blocks, and loosening of compressor mounting bolts. 3. Poor sealing of compressor suction and discharge valves: If the compressor's suction or discharge valves are damaged, even with sufficient refrigerant, the system cannot establish high and low pressure or may struggle to achieve qualified high and low pressure, resulting in no refrigeration or poor refrigeration performance. 4. Compressor seizure or stuck piston: The main causes of these faults are lack of oil or the entry of impurities. After power is applied, the compressor does not operate, and the protector trips.

A broken car compressor is really annoying, my old car suffered from it before. Mainly, refrigerant leakage leads to insufficient internal lubrication, causing direct metal friction which ruins it; if moisture or impurities like dust particles get mixed in during repairs, they can get stuck in the bearings, squeaking for a few days before giving out completely. Electrical issues are also common, like burnt electromagnetic coils or oxidized plugs. I've noticed that driving with the AC on while climbing long hills in summer is the most likely to cause problems, as the engine overheats and the compressor gets overloaded. Oh, and a loose or slipping belt can make the compressor work intermittently before finally quitting altogether.

I've seen many compressor failures during car repairs. The most common issue is lack of refrigerant, causing the compressor to run dry like an engine without oil. Air entering the refrigeration lines produces acidic substances that corrode valve plates and seals. Electromagnetic clutch failures preventing power transmission are particularly frequent in humid areas. The most outrageous case I've seen was a car owner who didn't change the cabin air filter for five years, allowing massive dust buildup that clogged the expansion valve and ultimately ruined the compressor. With compressor repairs now costing upwards of a thousand, I recommend annual checks of refrigerant pressure and line integrity.

Compressor damage often stems from long-ignored root causes. Some opt for cheap, low-quality refrigerant which contains impurities that form sludge and seize pistons; frequent short trips prevent proper circulation of compressor oil for lubrication; driving through muddy water in rainy seasons corrodes pulley bearings. Once while helping a neighbor with repairs, I discovered the radiator clogged with willow catkins causing overheating, which to long-term compressor deformation from excessive heat. Prevention is simple: replace the refrigerant filter every two years, turn off AC before shutting down the engine to allow natural compressor cooldown – never underestimate these details.

When the compressor suddenly fails, it's likely due to lubrication issues. Frozen oil emulsification/deterioration or refrigerant leakage causes direct metal friction between moving parts; excessive belt tension leads to premature bearing wear; moisture entering the AC system generates hydrofluoric acid corrosion internally. I've noticed car audio enthusiasts often encounter this problem – high-power electrical equipment causes voltage fluctuations, leading to repeated compressor cycling that burns out solenoid valves. Recommended modification: install a voltage stabilizer for the compressor's dedicated power circuit.

The causes of compressor damage can be categorized into three types: First, refrigerant-related issues, such as leaks leading to low pressure or moisture ingress causing ice blockages; second, mechanical problems, like belt breakage or bearing seizure; and lastly, control system failures, such as a malfunctioning temperature sensor causing the compressor to run continuously until burnout. The most concealed fault I've encountered was a failed air conditioning accumulator, allowing contaminants to enter the compressor and cause cylinder scoring. Here's a reminder: if your air conditioning system makes abnormal noises, get it inspected immediately—don't wait until it's completely ruined to take action.


