
To get a car title in Massachusetts, you must complete the transaction with the seller, submit the required documents to the Massachusetts Registry of Motor Vehicles (RMV), and pay the applicable fees. The specific process depends on whether there is a lien on the vehicle and if you're the buyer or seller. The most common scenario involves a private sale where the buyer receives the signed title from the seller and then applies for a new title in their name.
For the Buyer (After a Purchase): Your first step is to ensure the seller properly completes the Certificate of Title. They must sign it in the presence of a notary public. You'll also need a completed Bill of Sale (Form MAB-2), which details the vehicle and the sale price. Within 10 days of the sale, you must visit a full-service RMV location with these documents, a completed Application for Title and Registration (Form TTL001), proof of , and a valid ID. You'll pay the title fee, sales tax, and registration fees. The RMV will then issue a new title, typically mailed to you within 10-15 business days.
For the Seller: Your responsibility is to accurately complete the title assignment section, including the odometer reading and sale price, and have your signature notarized. Provide the buyer with the signed title and a completed Bill of Sale. To protect yourself from future liability, you must also notify the RMV of the sale by submitting a Notice of Sale (Form NOS) online or by mail, which officially removes the vehicle from your name.
If the Title is Lost or There's a Lien: If the title is lost, the seller must apply for a duplicate before the sale. If there's a lien (a loan), the lienholder holds the title. The lien must be paid off, and the lienholder will then release the title to you, often directly to the RMV.
| Step | Document/Form | Fee (Approximate) | Responsible Party | Key Consideration |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Complete Sale | Certificate of Title, Bill of Sale (MAB-2) | N/A | Buyer & Seller | Seller's signature must be notarized on the title. |
| Buyer Applies for Title | Application for Title and Registration (TTL001) | $75 (Title Fee) | Buyer | Must be done within 10 days of purchase. |
| Pay Sales Tax | Based on Bill of Sale | 6.25% of sale price | Buyer | Paid at the RMV during title application. |
| Seller Notifies RMV | Notice of Sale (NOS) | No Fee | Seller | Crucial to avoid liability for parking tickets or violations. |
| Duplicate Title (if lost) | Duplicate Title Application (TDT-1) | $25 | Seller (before sale) | Required if the original title is missing. |
| Lien Release | Lien Release Document | Varies | Lienholder/Buyer | The RMV processes the release before issuing a clear title. |
The entire process is straightforward if you have all the correct, properly executed paperwork. The most common delays occur due to missing notarization or an incomplete application.

Just went through this. The key is the paperwork. Get the title from the seller, but make absolutely sure they sign it in front of a notary—that’s the big one. You’ll also need a bill of sale. Then, you have 10 days to take it all to the RMV, along with your license and proof of . Pay the fees, and they’ll mail the new title to you. The seller should also file a "Notice of Sale" online to get the car out of their name. It’s a bit of a hassle, but it’s just following the checklist.

From a seller's point of view, my job is to make the transaction clean. I fill out the title with the exact odometer reading and sale price, and then I go to my bank to get my signature notarized—it’s usually a free service for customers. I hand the notarized title and a bill of sale to the buyer. The very last thing I do, right after they drive away, is go online and file the Notice of Sale with the RMV. This step is non-negotiable; it shields me from any tickets or issues the new owner might cause.

The biggest hang-up people face is the notary requirement. Don't wait until you're at the RMV to find out the signature is invalid. Plan ahead: banks, UPS stores, and some town halls offer notary services for a small fee. Also, double-check that every field on the title is filled out correctly, especially the odometer disclosure. A single mistake can mean your application is rejected, forcing you to track down the seller again to fix it. Meticulous attention to the document details saves a lot of time and frustration.

If you’re a car from a private seller, the title is your proof of ownership. When you meet to finalize the deal, inspect the title carefully. Look for any signs of damage or alterations. Verify the Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) on the title matches the VIN on the car’s dashboard. Once you’re satisfied, complete the bill of sale and ensure the seller gets their signature notarized. This due diligence upfront prevents potential legal and administrative nightmares down the road, confirming you’re buying a legitimately owned vehicle.


