
Yes, you can technically tow an all-wheel-drive (AWD) car in neutral for a very short distance at low speeds, such as pulling it out of a parking spot or onto a flatbed tow truck. However, for any significant distance or speed, this method is strongly discouraged and can cause severe, expensive damage to your vehicle's drivetrain.
The core issue is that an AWD system is fundamentally different from a two-wheel-drive car. Even when the transmission is in neutral, the output shafts are still connected to the differentials and all four wheels. Towing the vehicle with its wheels on the ground causes these components to spin without the engine running to provide lubrication. The transmission and transfer case on an internal pump that is only active when the engine is running. Without lubrication, metal components grind against each other, leading to rapid overheating and catastrophic failure.
The only universally safe way to tow an AWD vehicle for a long distance is by lifting all four wheels off the ground using a flatbed truck or a trailer. This completely disengages the drivetrain and prevents any internal damage. Some modern AWD systems may have specific "towing modes" or allow for certain configurations, but you should never rely on a general rule. The owner's manual for your specific make, model, and year is the ultimate authority.
| Towing Method | Risk Level | Recommended Maximum Distance | Potential Damage |
|---|---|---|---|
| Flatbed/Trailer (All wheels off ground) | None | Unlimited | None |
| In Neutral, 2 Wheels Down (FWD-based AWD) | High | Check Owner's Manual (often < 15-50 miles at < 35 mph) | Transmission, Viscous Coupling |
| In Neutral, 2 Wheels Down (RWD-based AWD) | High | Check Owner's Manual (often < 15-50 miles at < 35 mph) | Transfer Case, Center Differential |
| In Neutral, All 4 Wheels Down | Extreme | Avoid Completely | Severe damage to transmission, transfer case, and differentials |
Always check your owner's manual first. If it's not available, the safest and most cost-effective choice is always to call for a flatbed tow truck. The extra expense is negligible compared to the thousands of dollars a new transmission or transfer case would cost.

Just don't do it. I learned the hard way after towing my a few miles to the shop. The mechanic showed me the metal shavings in the transfer case—it was shot. Unless you're just moving it a few feet on your driveway, you're playing with fire. That repair bill hurt more than the original problem. Always, always call for a flatbed. It’s the only sure way to keep your wallet safe.

Think of it this way: your AWD system’s gears and bearings need oil flowing to stay cool and lubricated. That oil pump only works when the engine is on. Towing in neutral turns the drivetrain without pumping oil, like running an engine without coolant. It might be okay for a minute, but it’s a surefire way to cook the insides of your transmission or transfer case over any real distance. It’s a silent killer for your car.

It’s a question of risk versus reward. The risk is a repair bill that can easily exceed $5,000 for a new transfer case or transmission. The reward is saving maybe $75 on a flatbed tow. The math just doesn’t add up. Even if your buddy with a truck says it’s fine, your car’s manufacturer specifically warns against it in the manual. Protect your investment; insist on a flatbed service.

My son works at a transmission shop, and he sees this mistake all the time. People assume "neutral" means everything is disconnected, but in an AWD car, it's not. The wheels are still mechanically linked. His advice is simple: if you can't put it on a flatbed, you need to use wheel dollies under the other two wheels. That’s the only DIY method that’s safe. Otherwise, you’re gambling with a very expensive part of your car.


