
It is located on the oil and gas tank, with the drain at the bottom and the fill in the middle. Here are some related introductions about air compressors: 1. The use of air compressor oil: Air compressor oil can reduce friction on various types of machinery, protecting mechanical parts and workpieces as a liquid lubricant, primarily serving functions such as lubrication, cooling, rust prevention, cleaning, sealing, and buffering. 2. Common types of air compressors: Common air compressors include piston air compressors, screw air compressors (which are further divided into twin-screw and single-screw air compressors), centrifugal compressors, as well as sliding vane air compressors and scroll air compressors.

My old piston air compressor has the oil filler port on the side with a graduated round sight glass. Look for the plastic screw cap marked 'OIL' below the side panel, unscrew it counterclockwise to refill. Remember to use dedicated compressor oil - regular engine oil will coke at high temperatures. I usually fill to just above the midpoint of the sight glass, then tighten the cap. Checking oil level before each startup is crucial - this round revealed coupling wear caused by last oil shortage. After refilling, wipe off any oil spills to prevent dust buildup clogging the intake valve.

Last week, I just helped refill the oil for the factory's screw compressor. The oil filler port for large equipment is located on top of the oil and gas tank, requiring the protective cover to be lifted. Note that the machine must cool down for two hours, as 80°C hot oil can splash. I used No. 46 synthetic oil, and filling it to the 3/4 mark on the sight glass is the safest. Key reminder: Always unplug the power before refilling! Last year in our workshop, someone forgot to cut the power and accidentally pressed the start button, causing the gearbox to seize. Also, make sure to completely drain the old oil, as residual sludge can clog the oil filter—replacing an oil filter costs three times more than the oil itself.

Add oil directly into the air compressor base of the toolbox air compressor. Turn the red knob counterclockwise 90 degrees to reveal the oil filler hole, which is slightly narrower than a pencil. Use a dropper to add 10W-30 motor oil - 30ml is sufficient. Once I overfilled it, causing oil mist to spray from the exhaust port and stain an entire wall. These small machines only need oil replenishment every three months, but for belt-driven models, be careful not to drip oil onto the drive pulley. Keeping a spare bottle of oil in the garage is better than having an unexpected shutdown disrupt your painting work.

Oil-free air compressors require regular —don't be fooled by the name. The gearbox is located at the rear of the motor, and the silver hexagonal bolt serves as the grease filling port. Use high-viscosity EP-2 lubricating grease, as regular grease will thin and leak under high temperatures. Pump the grease gun into the filling nozzle three times until old grease is squeezed out from the drain hole—that's when the job is done. Last time I skipped this step, and the bearings wore out dry in just three months. It's recommended to perform this every 200 operating hours.

The split-type air compressor requires lubrication at three points: the main engine oil filler hole is located below the cylinder body nameplate, where mineral oil should be added using a funnel; the air tank oil filler is next to the safety valve; and the motor bearings require grease injection with a grease gun. Once, I mixed different engine oils, causing bubbles in the oil pipes. The mechanic explained that additives from different brands can cause chemical reactions. Important note: For models equipped with an oil-water separator, after adding oil, let the machine idle for ten minutes until the pressure gauge needle stabilizes to expel air bubbles from the system.


