
The dash cam's wire can be connected to the cigarette lighter, , or ACC fuse. Below are several wiring methods for dash cams: Cigarette lighter wiring: This is the simplest method. Just plug it directly into the cigarette lighter. After drawing power, route the wire through areas like the glove box or A-pillar. This method occupies the cigarette lighter, and since the wiring in the glove box area cannot be hidden, a section of the wire will remain exposed. Direct battery wiring: This requires running the wire from the cabin into the engine compartment and connecting it directly to the battery's positive and negative terminals. With this method, manually turning off the power is either impossible or very inconvenient. Additionally, there may be issues with over-discharging the battery. This method requires using the A-pillar to hide the exposed wiring. ACC fuse power draw: Generally, there is a secondary fuse box below the steering wheel on the driver's side. Locate the ACC fuse and insert a "fuse tap" directly into it. Refer to the user manual to identify the correct ACC fuse number. After drawing power this way, the original vehicle power supply remains unaffected. The dash cam starts receiving power when the vehicle's main power is on. This method also requires using the A-pillar to hide the exposed wiring.

My dash is connected to the cigarette lighter socket, which is super convenient. Just plug the included power cable into the round charging port in the car—the same spot where you'd normally plug in a car charger. However, the cable routing does look messy, with the wire stretching from the top of the windshield down to the center console, leaving a section exposed. Some cars come with a pre-installed USB port behind the rearview mirror, which makes things much easier. Just remember to route the cable away from airbag deployment zones, and tucking the wire into the headliner gaps is totally a DIY-friendly job.

The cleanest way to tap power is from the fuse box. You'll need to purchase a step-down cable, route the wire along the A-pillar behind the interior trim, and connect it to a spare fuse slot. This method leaves no visible wiring, with automatic power-on at ignition and shutdown when the engine stops. However, you must correctly identify the fuse position - getting it wrong can drain your (like when my older car's parking monitor drained the battery due to incorrect connection, which was later fixed by switching to a spare slot). Remember to add an in-line fuse for circuit protection - DIY installation carries some risks, so it's best done by an auto repair shop.

I directly connected the wire to the reading light area. I pried open the light cover above the driver's seat to find the 12V power source. When disassembling, it's necessary to use a plastic pry bar, which saves about three meters of wiring compared to tapping power from the fuse box. However, incorrect connections can easily blow the fuse, and the power of the aftermarket dash must not exceed that of the original car light. Last time, I reversed the positive and negative poles, which caused the reading light to stop working and gave me a scare. In the end, I spent 50 bucks to have a technician rewire it.

A car with a spare power source in the trunk is incredibly convenient. Installing the dash on the rear windshield and plugging the cable directly into the 12V outlet in the trunk allows both front and rear recording. The wiring can be neatly tucked along the door seal trim, eliminating the need to remove interior panels. However, the dash cam must support remote viewing, as checking footage requires going to the rear of the car each time. Adjusting the lens becomes tricky if there's a child seat in the back row.

I use the OBD port for power supply, specifically the diagnostic port under the steering wheel. Just buy an OBD adapter cable, plug it in, and you can monitor 24/7 without cutting wires or occupying the cigarette lighter. However, if parked outdoors daily, it drains the significantly, requiring replacement every two years. Once, after a ten-day business trip, the battery was completely dead upon return. Now, I've installed a voltage detection module that automatically cuts off power when the battery drops below 11.8 volts, which gives me peace of mind. This connection method also allows reading vehicle data, with alerts for speeding and hard braking.


