
When the brake pads and rotors are stuck together, first try releasing and applying the parking brake repeatedly several times. Start the car and use the foot brake in combination, pressing it multiple times. Start the car and alternate between moving forward and reversing. If they don't release, try a few more times, remembering not to accelerate abruptly and to use gentle force. If the issue persists, call the 4S shop for assistance. Typically, removing the tire and brake pads is necessary to resolve the problem.

I've encountered this situation several times, especially during the rainy season when the car is parked for a few days after washing—it's particularly prone to sticking. Just get in the car, shift into reverse, and give it a bit more throttle to break free. Don’t worry about the slight 'pop' sound. If it still won’t budge, don’t just wait around foolishly—find a safe spot to get out and check how badly it’s stuck. If the edges of the brake pads are heavily rusted, take a small hammer and lightly tap around the sides of the brake disc a few times to loosen the rust debris, which should help free it up. Last time, my neighbor’s car was stuck so badly the tire was locked solid—we had to use a jack to lift the tire off the ground and wiggle the wheel hub back and forth to get it unstuck. Remember, never pour cold water on a hot brake disc—steel discs are most likely to crack!

Mechanic Master Wang said the sticking was mainly caused by brake disc rust gluing the brake pads together. Once when I parked my car at the airport for two weeks, the same thing happened - the whole rear end jumped up when starting before releasing. It really scared me, so I immediately applied thread loosener to the wheel bolts to prevent rust seizure. The funniest part was my auto repair shop friend taught me this trick: shift to D - stomp brakes - shift to R - floor the throttle, repeating several times to forcibly break it loose using transmission impact force. It worked after three attempts! Now before long-term parking, I always spray some rust remover on the brake discs - works like a charm.

This is mainly handled in two steps: If the wheel can still rotate, drive at low speed forward and backward repeatedly a few times to grind it free, and stop immediately when the friction sound disappears. If it's completely locked, physical disassembly is the only option. You'll need to remove the wheel and use a C-clamp or a special tool to push the stuck brake piston back. My cousin once changed the brake pads himself but didn't fully push the piston back, causing it to stick, and finally had to use a hydraulic jack to press it back. A reminder: performance brake pads that have been modified are more prone to sticking, while ceramic pads are much better. If you really can't handle it, call your company's roadside assistance; the emergency service can handle this kind of problem for free.

First, stay calm and don't force it. Last time I yanked too hard and snapped the brake sensor wire. Here's a pro tip: Pour about 40°C warm water between the brake disc and caliper - the metal thermal expansion principle works wonders. Wait five minutes before shifting to reverse and gently pressing the accelerator. If the rust is severe, don't panic. Get a rubber mallet from the auto parts market for ten bucks and tap the caliper area, being careful to avoid the brake lines. Remember to drive around and pump the brakes several times afterward. If moisture isn't completely dried, it becomes dangerous when going downhill. Two years ago, a driver forgot this step and experienced complete brake failure while descending an overpass.

This question pops up daily in my off-road vehicle group. The easiest solution to try first is: start the engine, turn the steering wheel to full lock, and switch between forward and reverse gears a few times to let the tires twist and break free. If that doesn't work, you'll need tools - remove the wheel, spray WD-40 on the brake pad retaining clip area, and wait 20 minutes for it to penetrate. Once when camping after rain, my brakes seized, and I had to use a tire lever inserted into the wheel hub hole to pry the brake disc loose. A reminder for modified car enthusiasts: slotted/drilled rotors are relatively less prone to sticking, but you need to regularly clean mud from the cooling vents. Final safety note: Whatever method you use, you must test the brakes at low speed for the first 5 kilometers after treatment!


