What is the reason why the three door windows of BYD S6 cannot be raised or lowered?

[OJason]

BYD S6 three door windows cannot be raised or lowered, which is usually caused by battery power failure, disconnection of the power or ground wire of the window control module during other system maintenance and repairs, or severe power issues when starting the engine, leading to the loss of window initialization data. In this case, simply reset the system. The steps to reset the system are as follows: 1. Turn on the ignition switch, pull the switch up and hold it: When the window reaches the top, continue pulling for more than 3 seconds. Release the switch, then immediately press and hold the switch to lower the window to the bottom for more than 3 seconds. Repeat the upward movement again. The initialization process is complete, and the window lifting function is restored. 2. Remove dirt from the window guide channels: Issues such as skewed window glass, difficulty in raising or lowering, or automatic descent during operation are mostly caused by excessive dust and dirt in the window guide channels, increasing resistance.

[Martha]

Last time my friend's S6 had the same issue, where three windows stopped working simultaneously—it's most likely a problem with the control unit. The master switch on the driver's door panel is particularly prone to water ingress and oxidation, and once it shorts out, the rest follow suit. First, try resetting the system by holding down the driver's one-touch window button—sometimes a reboot fixes the glitch. Then, pry open the driver's switch panel to check if the wiring connector shows any burn marks, and while you're at it, pull out the 15A blue fuse labeled 'POWER WINDOW' in the third row of the fuse box to see if it's blown. If that doesn't work, the bundle of wires near the door hinge, which bends constantly, might be broken—you'll need to remove the trim panel and test the circuit continuity with a multimeter. A new switch unit from an electronics market costs just over a hundred bucks, and DIY replacement saves you more than half compared to a dealership.

[StephenLee]

If all three windows stop working simultaneously, first check if the driver's side control is functional. If the driver's side works normally while the other three fail, there's a 90% chance the issue lies in the common circuit on the passenger side. The S6's design routes the passenger door window controls through secondary wiring from the driver's switch. I've seen cases where the wiring harness near the passenger side sill entry point gets worn by floor mats, causing multiple wires to short against the body. Lifting the carpet reveals a gray-white taped harness—wrapping exposed areas with electrical tape can fix it. However, if there's no sound from the window motors, inspect the black connector below the B-pillar. Rainwater seeping along the weatherstrip can corrode the pins. WD-40 on the contacts provides a temporary fix, but a permanent repair requires replacing the socket terminals.

[OCamila]

If the three windows won't move, check the fuses first. Look for F2/22 (rear window) and F2/13 (front window) two 15A fuses under the glove box on the passenger side. If the transparent shell is blown, you'll see the thin wire inside broken. Just buy the same specification at an auto parts store for five bucks and replace it. If the fuses are fine, it's probably the driver's door control module that's frozen. I've tried disconnecting the battery negative for five minutes to reset the system, and it worked, saving the cost of replacing the module. If the glass is stuck halfway and needs to be pushed back manually, open the inner door panel, loosen the motor screws, push the glass to the top, and then re-lock the bracket. Otherwise, if the window regulator cable comes off the track, it will be more troublesome.

[LucilleDella]

This batch failure is definitely not a motor issue. A common problem with the S6 is the breakage of door wire harness cores, especially in winter when the rubber sleeves harden. Repeated opening and closing of the doors can cause fatigue fractures in the yellow, green, and brown control wires. To fix this, remove the door panel, use a utility knife to peel open the wire conduit, locate the break point, and reconnect the wires. Another less-known cause is in the trunk: the red power wire branching from the battery positive terminal may become loose, leading to a partial power interruption. Tighten the terminal nut by hand and wrap it with anti-oxidation tape for added security. Remember to lower the window all the way down and then raise it back up after the repair to allow the anti-pinch function to relearn its travel path.

[DiEleanor]

Same issue encountered. Turn on the ignition and listen for a buzzing sound from the door panel. If there's sound, it means the motor is functioning, and the problem lies in the switch contacts. Open the driver's control panel and sand the oxidized layer on the copper strips with sandpaper, or cut a piece of aluminum can to place under the contacts to enhance conductivity. If there's no sound, measure the voltage at the window regulator connector; the black and red wires should have 12V. I've tested that the intermediate connector in the wiring harness is above the footwell light—if it sparks when unplugged, it confirms a poor connection. The worst case is when the rear door wiring harness breaks at the point where it passes through the body into the door, requiring removal of the door hinge rubber tube to rewire. It's advisable to wear gloves when removing interior panels on rainy days, as water accumulation in the door cavity often carries live current and is very dangerous.