
The reason for the 'clunk' sound when the Patrol starts moving is due to shock absorber failure. Shock absorbers require regular , and irregular maintenance can easily lead to air or oil leakage, resulting in functional failure. Below are the precautions and operational requirements for starting the vehicle: Precautions for starting: Before getting into the vehicle, always look around the vehicle to ensure there are no obstacles that could affect driving safety. When starting, if you feel the engine lacks power or is about to stall, immediately press the clutch pedal and restart. Operational requirements for starting: The sequence of starting operations should be standardized and correct, with actions performed in order and simultaneously, without omission. The vehicle should start smoothly, without significant 'jerking' or shaking, and should not stall. All operational actions should be accurate and error-free.

This is a situation I often hear fellow off-road enthusiasts mention. The 'clunk' sound when starting the Patrol is most likely caused by aging chassis components. Particularly when the stabilizer bar bushings harden, a gap impact noise can occur during initial body movement. It's recommended to inspect the condition of all chassis bushings. Additionally, loose transmission mount bolts can also cause metallic collision noises, so a thorough inspection with a lift is advisable. If the noise only appears during cold starts, it might be due to brake pad adhesion caused by prolonged parking. The most troublesome issue would be excessive clearance in the transfer case chain or gears, which requires complex repairs. Prioritize checking the bushings and mounts first.

As a veteran owner who has driven three Patrols, I've experienced this abnormal noise twice. The most common cause is rust on the driveshaft spline, which produces a noticeable clunking sound during initial torque output. Additionally, cracked rubber bushings on the rear suspension upper control arms can also cause this, especially becoming more pronounced on rainy days. Here's a simple diagnostic method: Park the car, firmly press the brake, shift into D gear, and slowly release the brake while listening for the noise source. If the noise comes from the rear, it's likely a suspension issue; if it originates from the engine bay, it might indicate damaged transmission mounts. Remember not to overlook worn CV joints, as this problem will progressively worsen with continued driving.

From the experience of repair shop mechanics, such noise in a Patrol is 90% likely to be a mechanical issue. First, check the backlash of the rear axle differential by jacking up the rear wheels and shaking them forcefully to listen for any clunking sounds. Then, inspect the front wheel half-shaft splines for excessive wear; if the gap exceeds 0.5mm, replacement is necessary. Loose stabilizer bar links are the most commonly overlooked—use a pry bar to check for play. Additionally, examine the steering tie rod ball joints and lower arm bushings, especially on vehicles over eight years old—these areas must be inspected. It's recommended to take a test drive with a technician to pinpoint the exact location.

From a mechanical structure analysis, the startup clunking noise is a manifestation of backlash impact in the power transmission system. Priority inspection should focus on the driveshaft universal joint bearings—axial play space exists when loose. If the transmission output flange is excessively worn, angular deviation impact occurs during initial acceleration. Another possibility is seized brake caliper guide pins preventing complete brake pad retraction. I recommend recording the noise frequency: consistent noise during first daily startup indicates braking issues; noise only during turning acceleration requires CV joint inspection; if occurring on flat roads, examine the driveshaft and rear axle.

Those who drive large-displacement off-road vehicles understand this kind of trouble, especially with a Patrol equipped with low-range four-wheel drive. The key is to inspect the torque converter bolts of the transmission—loose bolts can cause knocking against the housing during power transfer. Oil leakage from the rear output shaft seal of the transfer case can lead to poor gear lubrication and increased wear due to enlarged gaps. For modified vehicles, check if the lift blocks are pressing against the drive shaft. In fact, the simplest first step is to test the half-shaft universal joints—shake the half-shaft by hand to feel for any noticeable play. If there's a knocking sensation, it needs to be replaced immediately, otherwise, the wear will accelerate the more you drive.


