
Possible causes include a blown fuse or a faulty relay. Here is more information about the electric fan: 1. Working principle: The electric fan in a car is controlled by a thermostat. When the coolant temperature rises to the upper limit, the thermostat turns on the power, and the fan starts working. When the temperature drops to the lower limit, the thermostat cuts off the power, and the fan stops. 2. Reasons for the fan not working: (1) Poor lubrication of the motor. (2) Overheating of the motor, leading to reduced load capacity and lower effective power output. (3) The starting capacitor's capacity decreases, resulting in insufficient starting torque to drive the load.

My old Sail also had the electric fan stop working once. After some troubleshooting, I found out it was a blown fuse. Open the fuse box on the left side of the engine bay, use needle-nose pliers to pull out the fuse corresponding to the cooling fan and check if the thin wire inside is broken—if it is, you'll need to replace it. If the fuse is fine, it's probably a bad relay. Those are the small black cubes behind the fuse box—ask a mechanic to tap them and listen for a clicking sound. Don’t risk driving in this summer heat; if the temperature gauge starts rising, pull over and shut off the engine immediately. Otherwise, you could overheat and damage the engine, which is way more troublesome. Last time I drove two kilometers with high temps and ended up spending nearly two grand on a new radiator—total waste.

The electric fan not working is no small matter! My Sail, after running 80,000 kilometers, started giving me trouble. First, feel the water pipe for temperature—if it's scalding hot and the fan still isn't running, try turning off the AC immediately. The temperature control switch on the Sail is particularly prone to failure. Unplug the sensor connector and clean the copper tabs; they might be rusted. I remember once after rain it acted up, and the repair shop worker short-circuited the two wires of the sensor directly with a screwdriver—the fan started spinning right away, diagnosing a dead sensor on the spot. When washing the car, remember to rinse the radiator gaps; too much willow catkin can also choke the fan.

I've repaired several Sail models with electric fan issues. Once, the connector got corroded with verdigris due to water ingress, but it worked fine after sanding it down. If the connector is okay, use a multimeter to check the voltage at the relay base—there should be 12V when the key is turned to the ON position. The fan motor might stop if the carbon brushes are worn out; if the blades feel stuck when turned, it's likely a motor problem. Don't be fooled into replacing the entire assembly—just replacing the motor costs only 200 yuan. The weirdest case I've seen was when the radiator was so dirty that the fan overheated and went into protection mode, but it worked normally after cleaning it out.

The diagnostic steps are simple: first, listen for the relay's clicking sound after ignition. Open the hood, have someone turn the key, and press your ear against the fuse box to listen for the click. If there's no sound, check the relay and fuse; if there is sound, inspect the fan's power supply. I keep a spare fuse in the glove box; replacing it myself takes just five minutes. Be extra cautious if you've modified headlights or audio systems, as circuit overloads can burn out the fan wiring harness connector. Once, during troubleshooting, I discovered the previous owner had improperly wired it, causing a short circuit that charred the control module chip.

A six-year Sail owner reminds you: the electric fan will fail at least once within ten years. It's best to clean the engine compartment before the rainy season, as cockroaches can crawl in and chew through the wiring. A modification shop owner told me that the Sail's fan relay is located behind the left headlight, and the model is interchangeable with the wiper relay for emergency use. If you notice the engine temperature is high, don't turn on the heater—it only adds fuel to the fire. My neighbor insisted on driving and ended up blowing the head gasket, costing over 4,000 yuan for a major repair. Now, I always install an OBD water temperature gauge in my Sail, which gives a ten-minute earlier warning than the factory dashboard.


