
According to the cylinder firing order, after determining that a certain cylinder's piston is at the top dead center of compression, the intake and exhaust valve clearances of this cylinder can be adjusted. After completing the adjustment, rotate the crankshaft and gradually adjust the valve clearances of the other cylinders using this method.

When repairing cars, I often encounter owners asking about valve adjustment. Simply put, first let the engine cool down, locate the top dead center mark on the crankshaft pulley, and remove the valve cover. Insert a feeler gauge between the valve stem and rocker arm; the standard clearance is generally around 0.15-0.25 mm. If it's too loose, the engine will make a ticking noise; if it's too tight, there will be insufficient power and valve burning. Loosen the adjustment nut with a wrench, turn the adjusting screw while moving the feeler gauge, and tighten the nut when you feel slight resistance. Older cars usually require a full adjustment, while some newer cars with hydraulic lifters can compensate automatically. After adjustment, remember to idle the engine for a few minutes to check if the sound is even. I've seen beginners not follow the firing order, resulting in the engine shaking like it's dancing.

Last time I tinkered with my motorcycle's valves and finally figured out the job. You need to prepare feeler gauges, wrenches, and a repair manual. First, remove the spark plugs to make it easier to rotate the crankshaft, then manually turn it to the top dead center position of the first cylinder's compression stroke. At this point, the exhaust valve has the maximum opening, but we're adjusting the closed intake valve. Each bike has different valve clearance requirements; for my CB400, the intake is 0.16mm and the exhaust is 0.20mm. The adjustment screw should be turned slowly—when using the feeler gauge, it should neither be too tight nor too loose. After adjusting one set, rotate 360 degrees to adjust the other set. If done correctly, the engine will sound crisp like when it was new; if not, acceleration will feel sluggish. Older bikes should be checked every 10,000 km, as aging rubber gaskets can affect accuracy.

When I was an apprentice at the repair shop, my master taught me valve adjustment. After removing the engine cover, the camshaft position must be marked, and a special tool should be used to secure the chain to prevent misalignment. First, measure and record the original factory clearance values—hot engine clearance is typically about 0.05mm larger than cold clearance. Worn valve seats will reduce the gap, while worn rocker arms will increase it. During adjustment, turn the adjusting screw with your left hand while holding the feeler gauge with your right. Be cautious when tightening the lock nut, as it may rotate the screw—use two wrenches to counter-fix it. Extra care is needed with aluminum cylinder heads to avoid thread stripping. After adjustment, recheck three times to ensure accuracy. Most modern cars use shims for adjustment, requiring checking part numbers to replace shims of different thicknesses.

During the last of my old Jeep, I was advised to adjust the valve clearance. The mechanic first removed the air filter box to expose the cylinder head and asked me to sit in the car, put it in neutral, and engage the handbrake. They used a socket wrench to turn the crankshaft pulley until both valves of the first cylinder moved, indicating the firing position. I watched as they used a feeler gauge to check all eight valves one by one, adjusting three that had excessive clearance. The worker mentioned that off-road vehicles, due to frequent jolts, are more prone to valve clearance changes. After the adjustment, I noticed quicker throttle response and reduced engine noise. The workshop supervisor reminded me that pushrod engines require more frequent checks compared to overhead camshaft engines.

Having run an auto repair shop for over 20 years, I insist on using the two-step valve adjustment method. First, bring cylinder 1 to top dead center on compression stroke, then adjust all intake valves and marked exhaust valves. Next, rotate the crankshaft a full turn and adjust the remaining exhaust valves. This saves half an hour compared to adjusting cylinder by cylinder. For European cars, pay special attention to synchronizing the camshafts on both sides of V-type engines - it's best to use timing tools to lock them. When encountering carbon buildup on valve lifters, clean it before adjustment as sludge affects measurements. Experienced mechanics know valve condition impacts fuel consumption - a 0.1mm gap difference can burn an extra 0.5 liters per 100km. Properly adjusted valves even make exhaust emissions cleaner.


