
Electronic handbrakes are not a problem. Mechanical handbrakes can affect the car's braking system and also lead to tire wear. Below are the correct operating procedures for starting the car, as well as methods for releasing the handbrake and shifting gears: Correct Operating Procedure for Starting: First, press the clutch and brake, shift into first gear, then release the handbrake. Slowly lift the clutch with your left foot until the car body starts to shake (semi-clutch state), then hold your left foot steady. Gradually release the brake with your right foot, lightly press the accelerator, and once the car moves forward, you can fully release the clutch. Methods for Releasing the Handbrake and Shifting Gears: To release the handbrake, gently lift it upward, press the release button, and then fully release it. When shifting gears, cover the gear knob head with your palm facing downward, grip the knob firmly with all five fingers, and then proceed to shift gears.

I've seen many beginners forget to release the handbrake before starting off. The car becomes extremely sluggish, the throttle response is poor even when pressed, and the rear wheels emit a sharp metallic grinding noise. In this situation, the brake discs and pads are in constant friction, with temperatures rising to several hundred degrees. The brake pads can wear down by half in just a few kilometers, and in severe cases, the brake discs can warp from overheating. Once, I rescued a vehicle where the driver had driven over ten kilometers with the handbrake engaged – the rear wheels were literally smoking. Such damage isn't cheap to repair, not to mention the additional strain on the drivetrain and increased fuel consumption. Most importantly, it's a safety hazard. Releasing the handbrake suddenly on a slope could cause the car to roll, and locked rear wheels during sharp turns may lead to loss of control. Before every start, I've developed a habit of glancing at the handbrake indicator on the dashboard – this lesson is truly worth remembering.

Last week, a friend made this exact mistake—he drove his brand-new car for five kilometers before realizing the handbrake was still engaged. He mentioned the car felt unusually sluggish, requiring 2,000 RPM just to hit 30 km/h, with a burning smell wafting from the rear. Upon inspection, the wheel hubs were scorching hot, enough to fry an egg. The mechanic warned that such misuse forces the braking system to overwork, rapidly wearing down the pads and potentially deforming or failing the tightly pulled handbrake cables. For automatic transmissions, the ECU may forcibly downshift upon detecting abnormal load, risking long-term gearbox damage. Develop a pre-exit routine: check the dashboard, engage the handbrake, shift to 'P.' Post-startup, releasing the handbrake should be step one. A winter incident stands out—attempting a turn with the handbrake on nearly caused a skid on icy roads. Safety is non-negotiable.

The most common issue encountered in repair shops is brake system failure caused by not releasing the handbrake. Driving with the handbrake engaged means the brake pads and rotors are constantly rubbing against each other, not only scattering metal shavings but also causing high temperatures that directly burn the friction material. I once had a customer's car that drove 40 kilometers with the handbrake on, resulting in grooves worn into the brake rotors, necessitating a complete replacement. This also significantly increases fuel consumption, as the drivetrain has to output 30% more power while idling. Electronic handbrakes are even more troublesome—when the system detects an anomaly, it may automatically activate a protection protocol, potentially cutting off power output. The most dangerous scenario is on long downhill slopes, where prolonged friction can lead to brake fade and complete failure. The preventive measure is to release the handbrake before shifting into gear after starting the car and to always check for warning lights while driving.

The year I first started driving, I made this mistake too—stepped on the gas without releasing the handbrake. On flat roads, it wasn’t very noticeable, but as soon as I turned a corner, the rear wheels would screech loudly, and the steering wheel became unusually heavy. The mechanic later found that the edges of the brake pads had been ground into powder, and the inner side of the wheel hub was blackened from overheating. Long-term damage like this is severe: the handbrake cable can become overly tight and deformed, and the brake calipers may start leaking fluid. It’s especially dangerous on highways, where sustained high temperatures can cause abnormal increases in tire pressure. Now, before moving the car, I always silently go through three steps: press the brake, release the handbrake, and shift to Drive (D). If you forget to release it on a slope, the car might roll backward the moment you lift the brake—new drivers should never skip this step to save time.

The most severe case I've seen was driving on the highway with the handbrake engaged. After thirty kilometers, the brake discs turned blue and warped. The principle is simple: the handbrake forcibly clamps the rear brake discs, and the car struggles to move forward as if dragging two brakes. This not only consumes more fuel but also shortens the lifespan of the brake pads. What's particularly damaging is the strain on the bearings and suspension—prolonged abnormal load accelerates metal fatigue. Electronic handbrakes can also trigger fault codes, requiring a specialized decoder to reset. Once, a friend drove like this in the snow, causing the rear wheels to lock up and the car to suddenly skid. For safety, if you feel sluggish acceleration or smell burning while driving, pull over and check. Developing the habit of checking the red "P" light on the dashboard before starting is crucial—after all, the cost of replacing brake discs could fill two tanks of fuel.


