
Oil grade is classified based on quality level and the kinematic viscosity grade of the oil at an engine temperature of 100 degrees Celsius. First, oil labeled with 'S' at the beginning is for gasoline engines, while oil labeled with 'C' is for diesel engines. The API grade represents the quality level of the oil, indicating its working capability. Engine oil, also known as engine lubricant, serves to lubricate and reduce friction, assist in cooling, seal against leaks, prevent rust and corrosion, and provide shock absorption and cushioning for the engine. It is often referred to as the 'blood' of a car. Engine oil consists of two main components: base oil and additives. The base oil is the primary component of the lubricant, determining its fundamental properties, while additives compensate for and improve any shortcomings in the base oil's performance, imparting new characteristics. Additives are an essential part of the lubricant.

















Having driven for over 20 years, I've learned that oil grades are like the ID cards for engine oil. There are two main parts to look at. One is the SAE viscosity grade, which is the numbers printed on the bottle like 0W-20. The number before the W represents low-temperature fluidity, especially crucial for cold starts in winter—the smaller the number, the easier the engine starts. The number after indicates high-temperature viscosity, key for protecting the engine during summer highway driving. The other is the API quality grade, such as letter combinations like SP. The S stands for gasoline engine oil, and P is the current highest standard with better cleaning performance. Older German cars need 40 viscosity, while newer Japanese models are suited for 20. Using the wrong oil not only doubles engine wear but also increases fuel consumption—my neighbor ended up with cylinder scoring from using cheaper low-viscosity oil. The safest bet is to follow the manual during regular .

Engine oil grades can be considered as the blood indicators of an engine. They mainly consist of two sets of parameters: viscosity grade and quality grade. First, let's talk about viscosity, such as 5W-30. The 'W' stands for Winter, and the smaller the number before it, the better the low-temperature performance. For example, 5W flows freely even at -30 degrees Celsius. The number '30' after the W represents the kinematic viscosity at 100 degrees Celsius. A higher number means better high-temperature protection but also higher fuel consumption. For quality grade, look at the API certification code. SP grade has additional oxidation resistance tests compared to SN, allowing for an extra 3,000 kilometers of driving. European cars also have the ACEA A3/B4 standard. The key is to match the engine requirements specified in the owner's manual. During my last , I found that the new turbocharged models must use 0W-20 SP grade oil. Using high-viscosity oil incorrectly can lead to delayed starts, oil pressure warnings, and in severe cases, require major repairs.

When I first started doing my own , I also didn't understand what the oil grades meant. The mechanic told me it's quite simple. Numbers like 5W-30 on the bottle indicate viscosity grades—5W means it can be used at -25°C in winter, and 30 is suitable for most cars' daily operating temperatures. There's also an SP/SN mark indicating quality level, with SP being the latest standard. The most important thing is to check the oil type recommended in your vehicle's manual and not to switch types randomly. Last time I changed the oil, I strictly followed the manual and used the factory-recommended 0W-20. Using the wrong oil can cause cold start difficulties and, over time, increase engine wear. Now, I stick to the standards for every six-month maintenance, and the car's condition has remained excellent.

I've seen too many cases in repair shops where the wrong engine oil damages the engine. Choosing the wrong oil grade is like giving the heart the wrong medicine. If the viscosity is too high, it increases cold-start wear and raises fuel consumption by 15%. Insufficient viscosity leads to inadequate high-temperature protection, making cylinder scoring more likely. Lower quality grades result in poor cleaning performance and severe carbon buildup. Always follow the manual—German cars generally require 40 viscosity, while Japanese cars only need 20. Older vehicles can go up one viscosity grade to compensate for gaps, but never arbitrarily change the specification. Additionally, SP-grade oils now include timing chain protection, extending chain life. Spending three minutes verifying the manual's recommended oil type during each service saves money and hassle compared to major repairs.

My 200,000 km veteran car survives by adjusting oil grades. Initially used 0W-20 low viscosity when new, switched to 5W-30 at year eight to fill piston ring gaps. After upgrading from SN to SP quality grade, oil change intervals extended to 9,000 km with noticeably less sludge. Always check the vehicle manual's allowable range - typically, cars over 10 years old can use viscosity 5-10 units higher than new. But avoid blindly using high viscosity, especially in variable valve timing engines that may trigger warning lights. Regular oil quality tests are crucial; if oil degrades quickly, consider adjusting the grade. I now consistently use SP-grade 30 viscosity oil every 5,000 km - cold starts are much smoother.


