
Here are the reasons why the Mercedes protection system fails to start: 1. First, it may be a circuit or electronic fault: Circuit faults include: blown fuse, open circuit in the high-voltage coil, open circuit in the low-voltage circuit, detached central ignition wire, leaking distributor rotor, and damaged spark plug. Electronic faults mainly refer to the failure of the central computer control board. 2. Then there may be a fuel system fault: Fuel system faults causing the engine to stall often come with symptoms such as weak engine power and a soft accelerator pedal. Possible locations of fuel system faults include: fuel pump failure, blocked fuel line, clogged fuel filter, carburetor failure, and damaged injector. Sometimes, the fuel tank may be empty without the owner's knowledge. 3. Finally, it could also be a mechanical fault: Common mechanical faults include: broken timing belt (chain), cylinder leakage with no pressure, etc.

It can be quite frustrating when a car won't start. From my experience with the 307, the most common reason for failure to start is a dead battery, especially in older cars where the battery has been used for three or four years and is prone to losing charge. When you insert the key, even the dashboard won't light up. Another common issue is a faulty starter motor; when you turn the key, you might only hear a clicking sound with no response from the engine. Fuel system problems could also be the culprit—if there were unusual noises from the fuel pump before or the fuel gauge was inaccurate, the fuel pump might have failed and isn't supplying fuel. A less common scenario is a mismatch between the key chip and the anti-theft system; trying a spare key might solve the problem. Don't forget to check if the relevant fuses in the fuse box related to starting have blown. For emergency situations, you can ask someone for a jump start, but for a permanent fix, it's best to consult a professional mechanic who can use a diagnostic tool to read the fault codes.

My friend's 307 once suddenly wouldn't start, and I accompanied him to the repair shop for a long inspection. It turns out the most common causes fall into two categories: electrical issues and mechanical problems. For electrical aspects, the top culprit is an aging battery—if the voltage drops below 10 volts, it can't power the starter; burnt contacts in the starter relay can also prevent current flow; and poor internal contact in the ignition switch, noticeable when the key feels stiff while turning, should raise caution. Mechanically, it could be a stuck starter gear or worn carbon brushes, especially prone to rust from water ingress on rainy days. Also, a reminder for manual transmission owners to press the clutch pedal firmly, and automatic transmission cars must be in P gear, otherwise the anti-theft system will lock the starting circuit. It's advisable to regularly check the battery's condition—replacing it outright after four years saves hassle.

I've researched the 307 starting issue. First, check the power supply: corroded terminals or loose ground wires can cause instant power loss—try sanding the terminals. Next, examine the starting system; if the starter solenoid fails to engage, the starter won't work—sometimes tapping the starter housing with a wrench can help temporarily. Also, pay attention to fuel delivery: a blown fuel pump fuse or faulty fuel pump relay can starve the engine. The most troublesome issue is a faulty crankshaft position sensor—if its signal fails, the ECU will prevent ignition. Quick tip: when turning the key, observe the anti-theft light on the dashboard—it should turn off during normal startup; if it stays on, the immobilizer is activated.

My 307 has experienced two instances of failing to start. The first time was during winter when the temperature was below freezing, the cold cranking current was insufficient, and the battery was so depleted that even the headlights dimmed. The second time was due to a starter motor failure; when turning the key, a harsh grinding noise came from the engine compartment, and upon disassembly, it was found that the starter gear was worn. The mechanic mentioned several other possible causes: ignition coil leakage leading to non-functioning spark plugs, clogged fuel injectors due to carbon buildup, or abnormal data from the intake pressure sensor. For automatic transmission models, special attention should be paid to the gear position sensor failure, as not being in P mode will cut off the starting circuit. In an emergency, you can try turning the key on and off five times in a row to reset the anti-theft system, but the fundamental solution is to identify and address the specific cause.

Starting issues in older 307 models are typically cumulative problems. Battery problems rank first, especially in vehicles with modified audio systems that are prone to power drain. Starter motor failures become common after 80,000 kilometers, manifesting as complete silence when turning the key or only the sound of the relay engaging. For fuel system issues, pay attention to insufficient fuel pressure caused by long-unchanged fuel filters, and impurities in the fuel tank can clog the fuel pump screen. There are also many electrical hazards: poor contact in the main relay, oxidation of the ignition switch, or even short circuits in the fuse box due to water leakage from the wipers. Once, I encountered the most peculiar case where incorrect wiring of an aftermarket anti-theft device interfered with the original vehicle system. During maintenance, it's recommended to focus on checking critical data such as starting voltage and fuel pump pressure.


