
The coolant does not need to be filled to the top. The car coolant should be added between the min and max marks on the expansion tank, and it must not exceed the max mark. How to Replace Coolant: Before completely replacing the coolant, conduct a thorough inspection to check for any signs of leakage or cracks in the pipes, with a focus on the five-way water pipe. The coolant flows through the five-way pipe and is then distributed to different parts of the car to function. If there is any leakage of coolant in this area, the water pipe should be replaced or the connection should be re-secured as needed. Drain the old coolant, then flush the liquid channels with clean water. Add clean water to the coolant reservoir and continue to pour water into the reservoir, allowing it to flow continuously through the engine cooling system. Then, start the engine and let it idle for 3 to 5 minutes to circulate the water. The water initially flowing out of the reservoir will have a faint pink color. Continue adding clean water until the water coming out is clear. Note: Remember to remove the heater hose and drain the water from the heater core. After draining for about an hour, add the new coolant through the radiator hose. Then, add another bottle of coolant to the coolant reservoir until it is nearly full. Start the engine and let it run for about 10 minutes. At this point, the coolant level will drop slightly as some air is expelled from the cooling system. Add more coolant until the level reaches the "MAXT" mark on the reservoir.

I'm the kind of seasoned driver who loves to delve into car details. You really don't need to fill the coolant all the way to the top of the reservoir. The cooling system is designed with specific considerations—usually, there are MAX and MIN lines marked on the side of the reservoir, and filling it to the middle is ideal. Think about it: when the engine heats up, the liquid expands, so leaving some space prevents it from pushing the cap open and spraying out. Once, I got lazy and filled it too much, only to find blue liquid pooling under my car the next day. The repair shop said the cap had cracked from the pressure. Normally, check the fluid level when the engine is cold, and if it's low, just top it up with the same color liquid—mixing different types can cause clogs from sediment. If you notice the level dropping again within a few days, be wary of a radiator leak or a blown head gasket.

Last week, while teaching my younger sister how to add coolant, I discovered a common misconception. Many people fill the reservoir to the brim like they do with windshield washer fluid, which can actually damage the car. Coolant expands and rises when the engine is hot, much like porridge boiling over. Filling it to the top can damage the seal cap. I told her to wipe off the dust around the cap edge before unscrewing it to prevent any debris from falling in. Nowadays, newer cars have very transparent reservoirs with MIN and MAX marks on the side; just fill it between these two marks. If the level is below the MIN line, add some purified water as an emergency measure and replace it with new coolant before a long trip. After topping up, remember to run the engine for five minutes and then recheck the fluid level.

From a physical property perspective, it shouldn't be filled to the brim. The main components of coolant are ethylene glycol and water, with a thermal expansion rate of about 6% when heated. When the engine is hot, the cooling system pressure can reach 1.5 bar, and filling it completely would exceed the pressure relief valve's limit. The reservoir cap has a pressure valve inside, and the overflow leads directly to the ground. If you see colored liquid dripping from the front of the car, this is likely the reason. The correct procedure is to check when the engine is cold, keeping the fluid level 1-2 cm below the MAX line for optimal safety. Avoid mixing different colored coolants, especially pink and blue, as they can easily form a gel when combined.

Seasonal breakdown makes it clearer: In summer, leave expansion space to prevent overheating; in winter, maintain proper concentration to avoid freezing. Living in the north, I test the antifreeze's freezing point before winter—replacing it if concentration is insufficient, but always filling to about a finger's width below the MAX line. Last year, a neighbor overfilled until it overflowed, causing radiator weld seams to crack during a cold snap. Southern drivers should avoid excessive water dilution—after heavy rain, top up with concentrate first. Many modern cars have auxiliary tanks with auto-fill functions, making it even more crucial not to haphazardly add fluid to the main reservoir.

The repair shop has witnessed quite a few tragedies. A young man once topped up his windshield washer reservoir with antifreeze until it overflowed, resulting in engine overheating and cylinder seizure three days later. The cooling system requires 15% air space as a buffer, much like the safety margin in a pressure cooker. Performance car enthusiasts need to be extra cautious—upgraded radiators paired with racing radiator caps have higher pressure thresholds, making overfilling more likely to cause hose bursts. Remember to apply a dab of antifreeze around the reservoir neck as a sealant before tightening; this extends the O-ring's lifespan. For regular vehicles, replacing the coolant every 40,000 kilometers is the safest approach. When topping up, don't blindly trust refractometers—different coolant formulations have varying refractive indexes.


