
Naturally aspirated engines should use 92 octane gasoline. Precautions for refueling include: 1. Choose to refuel when the temperature is relatively low; 2. If the car is not used for a long time or used infrequently, keep the fuel level low; 3. Avoid refueling when a tanker truck is unloading fuel; 4. Turn off the engine when refueling a gasoline car; 5. Do not mix gasoline of different octane ratings. Long-term mixing of gasoline with different octane ratings can affect the lifespan of the car's ignition system, fuel injectors, and spark plugs. The components of a fuel tank include: fuel tank cap, baffle, fuel gauge sensor, fuel inlet and return pipes, fuel filler neck, and vent. The function of the fuel tank is to store the working fluid required by the hydraulic system, and it also serves to dissipate heat, precipitate impurities, and separate air bubbles from the liquid.

I've been driving a naturally aspirated car for several years, and using 92-octane gasoline has been completely fine—no need to spend extra on 95. Car manufacturers have designed it well; engines with lower compression ratios are perfectly suited for 92. Using 95 would just be a waste of money, with no noticeable power boost unless your car's manual specifically requires higher octane. However, regularly driving on the highway is important to clean carbon deposits—I do it once a month, and it works well. Of course, if the fuel cap says 92 or above, feel free to stick with 92. The money saved can be better spent on .

Actually, mixing 92 and 95 octane gasoline won't damage the engine. I've done it occasionally in emergencies. For naturally aspirated cars, using 92 octane long-term is fine because the octane requirement isn't that strict. 95 octane is much more expensive, so it's better to save that money for higher-quality engine oil. However, be careful not to go to small gas stations just to save money—poor-quality fuel can easily trigger the check engine light. A friend of mine used substandard fuel and spent thousands on repairs. Nowadays, Sinopec's 92 octane is quite good, and the engine runs quietly.

The gasoline octane rating is related to the knocking issue. I've checked the information, and naturally aspirated engines typically have a compression ratio around 10:1, so 92 octane is completely sufficient. Of course, it's a different story if the engine has been modified with a high compression ratio. Gas stations always recommend 95 octane just to make more money—don't fall for it. However, in northern winters, higher octane fuel can be considered for better low-temperature fluidity. My decade-old naturally aspirated car runs smoothly on 92 octane all year round. The key factors are the condition of the engine oil and whether the air filter is clean.

95 octane just has more anti-knock agents than 92, with no actual difference in thermal value. Naturally aspirated engines don't need 95 octane unless you have a turbo. I once accidentally filled up with 95 octane and my fuel consumption increased instead of decreasing, wasting over a hundred bucks. But even with 92 octane, you need to pay attention to fuel tank cleanliness—regular replacement of the fuel filter is crucial. I change mine every 30,000 kilometers, and my throttle response is still very sharp. If you really want to take care of your car, regular carbon deposit cleaning is more effective.

Using 95 octane fuel in a car that the manufacturer specifies for 92 is completely unnecessary. I specifically asked the 4S , and they all said that for naturally aspirated engines, 92 octane is the most economical. Higher octane fuel doesn't increase power and may even lead to incomplete combustion. However, for those frequently stuck in traffic, it's recommended to use fuel from reputable gas stations and avoid substandard fuel from private stations. I've learned my lesson—poor-quality fuel can cause oxygen sensors to fail prematurely, costing thousands to repair. Following the manual's fuel recommendation is the most worry-free and practical approach.


