
The 2014 Chevy Cruze demonstrates below-average reliability for its class. It holds a 3.5 out of 5 rating from RepairPal, placing it 28th out of 36 compact cars. Its reliability is further questioned by 10 NHTSA safety recalls. Key failure points include the turbocharged engine, cooling system, and transmission. While some well-maintained examples reach high mileage, ownership often involves unexpected repairs.
The 1.4L turbocharged gasoline engine is a primary concern. It is prone to oil leaks from the crankcase and valve cover. More critically, the plastic coolant outlet and thermostat housing are known to crack, leading to coolant loss and engine overheating. A failed Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) valve, integrated into the valve cover, can cause oil consumption and rough idling. Repair costs for these engine-related issues typically range from $500 to $1,500, depending on the specific failure.
Transmission performance is another weak spot. Owners of models with the 6-speed automatic transmission (6T40) report harsh shifting, shuddering, and in some cases, complete failure. Proactive fluid changes are recommended, but do not guarantee prevention. The National Highway Traffic Safety (NHTSA) lists 10 safety recalls for the 2014 model year, addressing critical components like airbags, electronic power steering, and brake components. Any potential purchase must have all recall work verified as completed.
The 2.0L turbo-diesel variant is often considered more robust mechanically and offers superior fuel economy. However, it introduces its own costly risks, primarily failures within the Diesel Exhaust Fluid (DEF) injection system and particulate filter. Repairs for these emissions systems can exceed $3,000.
Owner sentiment reflects this mixed reality. Reviews on platforms like Edmunds praise the car's ride comfort and interior space but frequently cite electrical gremlins and the aforementioned mechanical issues. Achieving longevity requires strict, almost meticulous maintenance—particularly vigilant monitoring of coolant levels. A professional pre-purchase inspection focusing on the engine bay for leaks, transmission test drive behavior, and recall history is non-negotiable.

















As someone who owned a 2014 Cruze for five years, my experience was a constant trade-off. Yes, it was comfortable on longer trips and fairly efficient. But I was always waiting for the next thing to go wrong. The plastic coolant flange cracked around 70,000 miles—a known flaw. Then, the PCV valve went, causing a rough idle. My advice? If you’re not handy with tools or don’t have a trusted mechanic, the repair bills will frustrate you. I sold mine at 90,000 miles and felt relief. It’s a car that demands your attention and budget.

Let’s talk straight about what you’re signing up for. You’re looking at a car that was recalled ten times. Ten. That tells you about the build quality right there. The turbo engine is the main culprit for headaches: leaky oil, cracked plastic coolant parts, and PCV issues that mess with the engine’s breathing. The automatic transmission isn’t much better; it can be jerky and unreliable. Your best move is to get the diesel if you can find one, but know that its emissions system is a potential money pit. Otherwise, budget at least $1,500 for imminent repairs the moment you drive off. A thorough inspection is your only defense.

Considering a used 2014 Cruze? Your decision hinges on the prior owner’s care. This isn’t a “set it and forget it” vehicle. Before anything else, run the VIN through the NHTSA website to confirm all ten recalls are closed. On the test drive, let the car idle after a cold start—listen for rough running (a sign of PCV issues). Check under the oil cap for milky residue (coolant leak). Pop the hood and look for oily residue around the valve cover and turbo. Drive it through all gears, feeling for harsh shifts. If the seller has records of frequent coolant flushes and transmission service, that’s a good sign. If not, away.

I’ve been a mechanic for 20 years, and the 2014 Cruze is a regular in my shop. The pattern is predictable. Around the 60,000-mile mark, we start seeing coolant leaks from the thermostat housing. It’s all plastic and it fails. Then come the oil leaks and the check engine lights for the PCV system. The repair isn’t always complex, but the parts and labor add up. For my customers, I emphasize preventive care: use the correct Dex-Cool coolant, change the oil religiously with full-synthetic, and consider an early transmission fluid exchange. Even then, it’s not bulletproof. If you buy one, establish a relationship with a good mechanic immediately. View it as a serviceable commuter car with known, manageable flaws, not a trouble-free appliance. Its low purchase price is offset by its higher repair likelihood.


