
Is it best to stick or screw number plates?
Adhesive pads are currently the recommended and most common method for fitting number plates in the UK, offering a cleaner look and easier compliance with regulations. Screws are also but require careful installation to avoid specific pitfalls. The choice impacts legality, vehicle safety, and maintenance. Since September 2021, the British Standard BS AU 145e, while not legally mandating a specific method, strongly recommends the use of adhesive pads for fixing. The paramount legal rule from the DVLA is that any fixing must not obscure, misrepresent, or allow the plate to be easily altered.
The shift towards adhesive pads is driven by several practical and safety factors. A cleanly stuck plate presents no protruding fixtures that could injure pedestrians in incidental contact, a consideration in vehicle safety design. Adhesives also eliminate the risk of screws drilling into critical components behind the bumper, such as sensors for parking aids or radar systems for adaptive cruise control, which could lead to expensive repairs. From an aesthetic and aerodynamic perspective, a flush-fitted plate is often preferred for its seamless look and potential reduction in minor wind noise.
Using screws remains a perfectly legal alternative, but it introduces specific compliance risks. If screws are used, their heads must not be positioned in a way that changes the appearance of letters or numbers. For example, a screw head placed inside the loop of a '6', '8', or '9' could make it resemble a different character. The screw type matters; standard self-tapping screws can work loose over time due to vibration. Many automotive retailers now sell specific number plate screw kits that include anti-tamper caps colour-matched to the plate background, which help meet the 'not easily altered' requirement.
The decision often comes down to the vehicle's design and owner's habits. Most new cars from dealerships now come with adhesive-fitted plates as standard. For owners who frequently change plates—such as those with private registrations or who attend car shows—high-quality adhesive pads like those from 3M or VHB tapes allow for removal and re-fitting with careful application of heat, whereas screw holes permanently damage the plate. However, in very cold climates, extreme temperatures can theoretically affect the strongest bond of some adhesives.
The following table summarises the key comparison points:
| Aspect | Adhesive Pads (Recommended) | Screws (Legal Alternative) |
|---|---|---|
| Regulatory Alignment | Directly aligned with BS AU 145e recommendation. | Permitted, but requires careful installation to avoid obscuring characters. |
| Safety & Damage Risk | Low risk; no protruding parts, no risk of damaging underlying sensors. | Higher risk; potential pedestrian injury risk and risk of drilling into bumper electronics. |
| Aesthetics & Function | Clean, flush finish; potentially better aerodynamics. | Visible fixings; can collect dirt; may loosen with vibration over time. |
| Practicality | Easy, one-time application; challenging to remove cleanly without heat. | Requires drilling; easier for frequent plate swapping but damages plates. |
| Typical Use Case | Standard fit for modern vehicles, leased cars, and daily drivers. | Classic cars with pre-drilled holes, or where a more permanent mechanical fix is desired. |
Ultimately, for the vast majority of modern vehicles and drivers, using a set of high-quality automotive-grade adhesive pads is the optimal choice. It satisfies the regulatory spirit, minimizes risks, and offers a neat appearance. If opting for screws, invest in a proper fitting kit, ensure the screw heads do not interfere with any characters on the plate, and check them periodically for tightness.

I’ve always used sticky pads for my plates. Switched a few years back after a mechanic friend pointed out I’d nearly drilled into a parking sensor on my old hatchback when using screws. It’s just easier – you clean the area, peel the backing, and press it on firmly. No tools, no worrying about the drill slipping. My current plates have been on for three years through all sorts of weather and haven’t budged. The car looks smarter without visible screw heads, too. For me, it’s a no-brainer unless you’ve got a specific reason to need screws.

Working at a body shop, we fit dozens of plates a week. The industry standard is absolutely adhesive pads, specifically the high-strength foam tape type. We see the problems screws cause: cracked plates from over-tightening, rust streaks from cheap metal screws, and, worst case, costly sensor damage. The British Standard guidance exists for good reason. When a customer insists on screws—sometimes for a vintage car—we use a proper template and a specific drill bit to avoid cracking the acrylic, and we always fit anti-tamper caps. But our strong advice is always to go with pads. It’s a cleaner job, safer, and what every manufacturer expects us to do now.

Here’s a simple DIY perspective from someone who changes plates seasonally for shows. Adhesive is king for convenience, but you need the right product. Don’t use cheap thin double-sided tape; it will fail. Buy proper number plate adhesive pads from a motor factors. To remove a plate stuck with good pads without breaking it, use a hairdryer to warm the plate and the adhesive for a few minutes. Then, slowly work a thin nylon trim removal tool or some strong fishing line behind it. The heat softens the bond. For a permanent show car fit, some still prefer sleek, colour-coded screw caps for a polished look—just be meticulous about alignment.

The core issue here is compliance, not just preference. As the regulations state, any method is acceptable provided the registration mark is clear, un-obscured, and not easily altered. Adhesive pads naturally satisfy the “not easily altered” criterion better than standard screws, which is why they’re recommended. The critical point with screws is the detail: a screw head in the wrong place can make a ‘1’ look like a ‘7’. Police and MOT testers will fail a plate if the characters are misrepresented. Therefore, the “best” method is the one that most reliably guarantees compliance with zero margin for error. For most people, that is the adhesive route, as it removes the variable of installer error inherent in drilling and positioning screws. It’s a straightforward solution to a legal requirement.


