
You can directly use a lift to raise the car and check for any scratches on the undercarriage. Here are specific methods to protect your car's undercarriage: 1. Apply an undercarriage coating: The engine guard's protection area is too small, so you can spray a layer of undercarriage coating on the vehicle's undercarriage. 2. Install an engine guard: The engine guard can protect the engine from road debris impacts and foreign object scratches, but this feature is not available on all models. While the guard can reduce damage from bottoming out, it may affect engine heat dissipation and could interfere with engine drop-down during a collision, posing a safety hazard. Therefore, when selecting a guard, make sure to choose a qualified product. 3. Be aware of your car's ground clearance: Try to avoid bottoming out as much as possible.

I encountered this situation last time as well, let me briefly share my inspection method. First, park the car on a flat surface, turn off the engine, and engage the handbrake for safety. Use a strong flashlight to get down and inspect the front, middle, and rear parts of the undercarriage, focusing on checking the engine guard plate, exhaust pipe, and suspension components for any fresh scratches or deformations. Then, feel around the fuel tank area and the inner side of the wheel arches to check for oil leaks or dents. Pay attention while driving—if you hear any metal scraping sounds from the undercarriage, stop immediately to inspect. Make it a habit to glance at the undercarriage after going over speed bumps or potholes, and never ignore any scratches you find. I usually perform a thorough inspection once a month, as damage to the undercarriage could affect steering or cause oil leaks, making repairs particularly troublesome.

Checking the chassis involves a three-step process. First, perform a static observation: after the car is parked securely, around it twice to check for any oil stains or water marks on the ground, which could indicate leaks caused by scrapes. Then, squat down to inspect the inner side of the tires and mudguards for any tearing signs, and check if the exhaust pipe is deformed. Next, conduct a dynamic test: while driving at low speed, turn the steering wheel sharply to listen for any abnormal noises, and pay attention to whether the chassis makes scraping sounds when reversing. Finally, a thorough inspection requires lifting the car to check if the protective paint on the longitudinal beams and suspension arms has peeled off. I recommend performing this routine after every long-distance self-drive trip, as gravel roads are the most likely to damage the chassis. If any scrapes are found, address them promptly—rust can lead to repair costs that could buy you new tires.

My experience is that chassis inspection should focus on key areas. The engine oil pan is the lowest point and the first to get scraped, so check for cracks or oil stains. The fuel tank skid plate is most prone to deformation, with obvious creases at the folded metal corners. The driveshaft and middle section of the exhaust pipe have minimal ground clearance, and dents can be felt by hand. Pay special attention to the outer casing of brake lines and wiring harnesses for any damage. I recommend taking the car to a repair shop and having it lifted for inspection, as this allows clear visibility of the steering tie rod ball joints and suspension bushings. Minor scrapes can be touched up with anti-rust paint yourself, but if the skid plate is deformed by more than 5 cm, it's best to replace it to avoid affecting ground clearance.

Inspecting the undercarriage requires good timing. When washing the car, ask the technician to adjust the high-pressure water gun to rinse the undercarriage, as the water flow can remove mud for better visibility. Check immediately after driving on rough roads—fresh scratches are most visible then, and metal scrapes will reflect sunlight. For nighttime inspections, use a flashlight held at an angle to highlight shadows in dents. I prefer laying a piece of cardboard under the car and inspecting while lying down for a more thorough check, especially along the inner edges of the four wheels. Pay attention to the fuel tank seams and transmission oil pan, as impacts here can lead to leaks. Minor scratches on plastic guards can be ignored, but exposed primer on metal parts must be addressed to prevent rusting through during rainy days.

Young people now use new methods to inspect the undercarriage. First, they turn on their phone's video camera in wide-angle mode, slide it under the car, and move it back and forth to record. Alternatively, they use a car inspection tool with a camera to view real-time footage from beneath the chassis. An even easier option is to visit a self-service car wash, spending ten bucks to use their lifting equipment. Focus on three high-risk areas: the front lip is prone to scraping against curbs, the side sills can dent if they hit rocks, and the heat shield below the rear exhaust is the most vulnerable. If you find scratches, don’t rush to repair them—first measure the depth with a ruler; only if it exceeds 1 cm does it need attention. I always keep a can of undercarriage rust-proof spray in my car to handle minor scratches myself.


