
Do you lock the steering when using a tow dolly? Yes, you must lock the steering wheel of the towed vehicle when using a tow dolly. An unlocked steering wheel can turn freely, causing the front wheels to snap side-to-side. This induces severe sway, risks the vehicle rolling off the dolly, and can lead to a catastrophic loss of control. Securing the steering is the fundamental step to ensure safe, stable towing.
The core mechanism of a tow dolly lifts only the front wheels of the towed vehicle, leaving the rear wheels on the road. If the steering isn't locked, the front wheels remain free to pivot. Any slight turn of the towing vehicle, crosswind, or road imperfection can cause these wheels to turn sharply. This creates a dangerous feedback loop: a small turn amplifies into violent fishtailing that is very difficult for the driver to correct. Industry safety analyses consistently cite improper steering securement as a primary factor in tow dolly-related incidents.
There are two primary, industry-recognized methods to secure the steering, each suitable for different vehicle designs.
For most modern vehicles, use the ignition to lock the steering column. With the vehicle in neutral and the parking brake released (critical for flat-towing), turn the ignition to the "Lock" position and remove the key. This engages the steering column lock, physically preventing the wheel from turning. Test this by vigorously trying to turn the wheel after locking. This is the most secure and recommended method.
If the vehicle lacks a traditional steering lock—common in some older models or specific OEM designs—you must physically tie the steering wheel. Use a high-quality, non-stretch strap or a dedicated steering wheel lasso. Secure the wheel firmly to the dolly's frame or a solid, non-moving part of the vehicle's interior, like the brake pedal or a seat frame. The goal is to eliminate all left-right play. A common error is using a bungee cord or elastic strap, which allows movement; only use rigid straps or ratchet ties designed for this purpose.
The necessity of this practice is underscored by equipment specifications. Leading tow dolly manufacturers like Master Tow and explicitly state in their manuals that the towed vehicle's steering must be immobilized. Furthermore, automotive clubs such as the AAA remind members that failing to secure the steering void insurance coverage in the event of an accident caused by towed vehicle sway.
A comparison of outcomes clearly shows why this step is non-negotiable:
| Steering Condition | Towing Stability | Risk Level | Potential Outcome |
|---|---|---|---|
| Properly Locked/Tied | Stable, predictable tracking behind tow vehicle. | Low | Safe, controlled towing. |
| Unsecured / Loosely Tied | Unpredictable, prone to sudden sway and fishtailing. | Extremely High | Loss of control, roll-off, chain-reaction collision. |
Before every trip, conduct a final check. Confirm the steering wheel cannot budge more than an inch in either direction. Walk around to verify the towed car's front wheels are centered and aligned with the dolly. This 60-second check is your final safeguard. Remember, securing the steering isn't just a suggestion—it's the definitive requirement for safe tow dolly operation that protects you, your vehicle, and everyone on the road.

As someone who’s towed cars cross-country for a decade, I never hitch up without locking that wheel. I learned the hard way early on with an old sedan that had a worn ignition lock. I thought a tight bungee would do the job. Within ten miles on the interstate, a passing truck created a wind gust. The front wheels caught it, jerked sideways, and the whole rig started snaking violently. I was lucky to control it. Now, my rule is absolute: key in the lock position, and a solid tug-test on the wheel. If it moves, I don’t move. It’s that simple.

Think of your tow dolly and car as a single unit. The dolly’s wheels steer this unit. If the car’s front wheels can also turn independently, you have two steering systems fighting each other. Physics takes over, and the result is uncontrollable oscillation. My job as a transport technician involves prepping dozens of vehicles for towing. We categorically refuse to dispatch any dolly-towed vehicle without verifying the steering lock. For models without a column lock—certain classic cars are typical—we use a heavy-duty nylon lasso strap, ratcheted down to eliminate any slack. The wheel shouldn’t have a millimeter of free play. This isn’t a matter of preference; it’s basic mechanical safety.

New to using a tow dolly? The steering lock is your top priority. Here’s my straightforward checklist from my own beginner’s mistakes: 1) Drive the car onto the dolly carefully, centering the wheels. 2) Put the transmission in Neutral. 3) Release the parking brake (yes, really). 4) Turn the ignition to “Lock,” pull the key out. 5) Now, physically grab the steering wheel and try with force to turn it left and right. It should not move at all. If it does, your lock isn’t engaged—cycle the key and try again. If your car can’t lock (some older models), tie it down tight with a proper strap, not a rope. This check takes moments but makes your trip safe.

I approach this as an engineer would: by understanding the failure mode. An unsecured steering wheel creates a pivot point with a dangerous degree of freedom. During transit, forces from lane changes, uneven roads, or wind act on the towed vehicle’s body. These forces translate directly to the steering linkage, causing the wheels to turn. Once they turn, the vehicle’s own momentum pushes against that angle, amplifying the swing in the opposite direction. This feedback loop builds rapidly into severe sway. Locking the steering column or firmly tying the wheel removes that pivotal freedom. It transforms the towed car’s front end from an active steering assembly into a passive, fixed load. This is why all credible towing guides treat steering lock-up not as a helpful tip, but as the foundational condition for safe operation. The system is only as stable as its most uncontrolled joint.


