
Yes, a 904 car transmission can be put in a truck, but it is generally not recommended for anything beyond a light-duty application. The core issue is that the TorqueFlite 904 was designed for the lower weight and torque output of passenger cars, not the heavier loads and increased stress of truck use. While it might physically bolt up to certain truck engines (like a Slant-Six or a small-block V8), its internal components are not built to handle frequent towing or heavy payloads, leading to a high risk of premature failure.
The primary challenge is the torque capacity. The 904 has a lighter-duty internal construction compared to its truck-specific counterpart, the 727. Key differences include narrower clutch packs and a smaller output shaft. For a vintage Dodge pickup used for occasional light cruising, a 904 might survive, but installing it in a truck you depend on for work or towing is asking for a breakdown.
Bellhousing compatibility is another critical factor. You must ensure the transmission's bellhousing pattern matches your truck's engine. While many Chrysler engines share patterns, there are variations. The output shaft must also match your truck's driveline, which may require a custom driveshaft.
A far better alternative is the heavier-duty A518 (also known as the 46RH or 47RH), an overdrive version of the 727 that is a much stronger, direct bolt-in replacement for many older trucks, providing both durability and improved highway fuel economy.
| Transmission Model | Typical Max Torque Capacity (lb-ft) | Common Applications | Key Differentiator |
|---|---|---|---|
| TorqueFlite 904 | ~350-400 | Dodge Dart, Plymouth Valiant | Light-duty, passenger car focus |
| TorqueFlite 727 | ~450-550+ | Dodge D100, Ramcharger, V8 Jeeps | Heavy-duty, truck/performance oriented |
| A518 (46RH) | ~500-600 | 1990s Dodge Ram V8 Trucks | Overdrive version of the 727, robust |

As a mechanic, I've seen this attempted. It bolts up, but it's a band-aid fix. The 904's guts just aren't meant for truck work. You'll burn up the clutches fast if you load the bed or hook up a trailer. Save yourself the headache and tow bill—find a 727. It’s the same basic design but built tough from the start. Only consider a 904 for a lightweight show truck that never hauls anything heavier than its own gas tank.

From a restoration perspective, the answer depends on your goal. For a concours-correct restoration, you must use the transmission that originally came with the truck. If you're building a period-correct hot rod pickup and the 904 was available behind a similar engine in a car, it can be a viable, lightweight option for improved acceleration. However, for a truck meant to be used as a truck, authenticity should take a back seat to durability. The correct, period-specific truck transmission will always be the more reliable choice.

If you're a hot-rodder looking to build a lightweight, street-focused pickup, the 904 can be a interesting choice. Its lighter weight can help with weight distribution and acceleration. However, you must be realistic about its limits. You'll need to upgrade the transmission with a shift kit, a deeper transmission pan for extra fluid cooling, and a high-stall torque converter matched to your engine's . Even with these mods, it's not a transmission you can abuse with sticky tires and hard launches without expecting it to fail.

Think of it like putting a compact car's engine in a semi-truck—it might fit, but it won't last. The 904 transmission is a fine unit, but it was engineered for a different life. The constant strain of moving a heavy truck, especially from a stop, generates immense heat and pressure that the 904's narrower bands and smaller bearings aren't designed to withstand. For a daily driver truck, the investment in a proper transmission like the 727 or a modern overdrive unit is cheaper than replacing a failed 904 multiple times. It's about using the right tool for the job.


