
The most likely causes for a 2015 Chevy Trax AC failure are a burned-out blower motor resistor and wiring harness (causing no airflow) or a refrigerant leak from the AC discharge hose (causing warm air). Less common issues involve a faulty HVAC control module or a compressor clutch not engaging. Immediate troubleshooting should focus on these specific, well-documented failure points.
A systematic approach is key. Start by checking if the cabin fan works. If there's no airflow at any speed, the problem is almost certainly electrical, centered on the blower motor circuit. If the fan blows air but it's not cold, the issue is within the refrigerant system.
Common 2015 Chevy Trax AC Failures & Repair Focus:
| Failure Point | Symptom | Typical Repair Cost (Parts Only) | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Blower Motor Resistor & Harness | Fan doesn't work, or only works on the highest speed. | $25 - $180 | This is the most frequent failure. The harness connector often melts due to resistor overheating. |
| AC Discharge Hose Leak | Airflow is normal, but air is not cold. | $50 - $150 | A common leak point. The entire hose assembly typically needs replacement. |
| HVAC Control Module / Cable | Inability to adjust temperature or airflow mode. | $100 - $300 | A faulty blend door actuator or cable prevents proper temperature mixing. |
| AC Compressor Clutch | No cold air; clutch does not engage when AC is turned on. | $200 - $500 | Often a result of low refrigerant (from a leak) or a failed pressure switch/relay. |
For a complete fan failure, the integrated solution is to replace the blower motor resistor, the blower motor itself, and the wiring harness as a set. This addresses the root cause of the overload that melts the connector. Market data from repair forums and parts databases indicates that addressing these components together prevents near-term recurrence.
If the fan runs but the air is warm, the primary suspect is a refrigerant leak. The AC discharge hose, which runs from the compressor to the condenser, is a known failure point on this model. A professional diagnosis will involve a leak test and a system pressure check. Simply recharging the refrigerant without fixing the leak is a temporary fix that will fail again, typically within a few weeks or months.
While less frequent, a malfunctioning HVAC control module or a detached blend door cable can also mimic AC problems by preventing proper temperature regulation. Visual inspection behind the control panel can sometimes reveal this issue. Finally, always verify the serpentine belt is intact and that the compressor clutch is receiving power and engaging when the AC is switched on.

I just went through this with my own 2015 Trax. The fan completely died one day. I did some digging online in owner forums, and everyone pointed to the blower motor resistor and its wiring harness. I opened up the panel under the passenger-side dash, and sure enough, the plastic connector on the harness was melted and crispy. It’s a super common flaw. I ordered a new resistor and harness kit for about $65 and replaced both in under an hour. The fan’s worked perfectly ever since. If your air has stopped blowing, check that first before you panic.

As a mechanic who sees a few of these each summer, the 2015 Trax has a couple of predictable failures. When an owner tells me "the air doesn't blow," my first stop is the blower motor resistor harness under the glove box. The design causes it to overheat and melt the connector. For "blows but not cold," I immediately pressure test the system. Nine times out of ten, I find a leak at the discharge hose connections. The factory hose seals seem to degrade prematurely. My advice is to not just keep adding refrigerant. Find and fix that leak, usually the hose assembly, or you'll be back in my shop in a month. The compressor itself is fairly robust on these, but it won't engage if the refrigerant pressure is low due to a leak.

Here’s a simple priority list based on symptoms:

We’ve owned our Trax since new, and the AC problem hit us around year seven. Initially, the fan would only work on the highest setting, then it quit entirely. I was worried it was a major, expensive repair. After researching, I learned this is a widespread issue with a known fix. I’m not a car expert, but I followed a detailed video guide. Purchasing a combined resistor and harness kit was the key—the new harness has improved connectors that are less prone to melting. The repair was straightforward: remove the old, melted parts and plug in the new ones. The relief when the fan kicked back on was huge. It’s been two summers with no trouble. My takeaway for other owners is this specific problem is almost a item for this model. Tackle it yourself with a $60 part and some patience, or know exactly what to tell your mechanic to save on diagnostic time.


