
Three areas in a car that are most vulnerable to water ingress: Area 1: Sunroof The sunroof is located on the roof. When rainwater flows onto it, the water will run along the sunroof channel towards the drain holes, then be discharged through drainage tubes typically hidden inside the A and C pillars. If the sunroof drain holes become clogged, accumulated water may overflow into the car interior. Another potential issue is the sealing rubber gasket. Area 2: Door During rainy weather, window glass and sealing rubber strips usually do a good job of keeping rainwater out. Water that seeps through gaps will enter the door cavity and flow out through drainage holes at the bottom of the door. However, if the door develops the same problems as the sunroof—clogged drainage holes, aged or loose sealing strips, or damaged rubber gaskets at the bottom drainage holes—it will prevent water from draining properly, allowing it to flow into the car floor and become a persistent nuisance. Area 3: Chassis The car chassis generally has drainage holes to allow water to escape after driving through water. If these drainage holes are blocked by debris or if the rubber gaskets around them have aged and fallen off, water can easily seep in after driving through water. Therefore, after driving through water, it's advisable to promptly lift the floor mats to check for any accumulated water. If found, it should be dried immediately, and the car chassis should be dehumidified.

Last time I drove my father-in-law's car through deep water, the repair cost nearly 8,000 yuan! The key affected area was the engine air intake - water got sucked into the cylinders and directly bent the connecting rods. Also, the exhaust pipe shouldn't be submerged too deep, as water can backflow after stalling and ruin the catalytic converter. Inside the car, pay special attention to the brake fluid reservoir and fuse box - if water enters the brake fluid, the brakes will feel spongy. If the ECU under the dashboard gets flooded, repairs start at four-digit costs. By the way, some vehicles have vent holes on the rear differential - if water exceeds this level, the gear oil will emulsify. Before driving through water, it's best to check your vehicle's air intake height - for sedans, it's generally safe if water doesn't exceed the midpoint of the wheel hubs.

My auto repair shop deals with flood-damaged cars every day during the rainy season. The most dreaded issue is water entering the engine, with repairs often costing over ten thousand yuan. Next are the electronic modules in the car, like the ECU computer board, which is usually irreparable if soaked, and replacing it along with labor costs around three to four thousand yuan. A clogged sunroof drain pipe is even more troublesome, as water can seep into the body control unit under the carpet, causing erratic window operation. If the subwoofer in the trunk gets waterlogged and short-circuits, it can blow a fuse. It's advisable not to directly spray water at the fuse box in the engine compartment when washing the car, as old cars with worn wiring are prone to short circuits. After heavy rain, check if the drainage holes at the bottom of the door panels are blocked by leaves.

A decade of off-roading lessons learned the hard way: Always raise the air intake with a snorkel when modifying. The stock air filter box sits too low - water just half a wheel deep can get sucked in. The breather valves on transfer cases and differentials are another weak point; we always install extension tubes when modifying Wranglers. The most deceptive are headlight assemblies - high-pressure car wash jets can damage the seals. Fogging inside the lens is minor compared to frying HID ballasts. Last year after a water crossing, I discovered rust on the steering column sensor under the wheel, triggering false ESP warnings. Always check the fuse box for water marks after fording by opening the engine bay.


