What should be paid attention to when parking for a long time?

[DeAlexis]

When parking for a long time, you should pay attention to: 1. Prevent metal rust: For cars that are parked for a long time, the metal surface should be kept clean, and dust, dirt, and moisture on the car should be removed in time. The parts and surfaces that are prone to rust should be coated with engine oil, grease, or wrapped with oil paper; 2. Prevent aging and deterioration of rubber products: Long-term parked vehicles should avoid direct sunlight and contact with mineral oil; 3. Check the cotton and linen products on the car frequently, air them in time, and keep them dry; 4. The fuel tank should be tightly sealed, and avoid excessive temperature. The storage time of gasoline should not be too long; 5. Check the working condition of the engine frequently, start the engine at least once a month, let it idle for 4 to 5 minutes, and check the operation of the engine.

[Joy]

The biggest fear when parking for a long time is the car getting damaged from sitting idle. I always pay attention to this. First, choose a safe parking spot, preferably an indoor parking lot or a place with surveillance to avoid exposure to wind and sun. Tires require special attention—it's best to inflate them to a higher pressure, around 3.0 bar, to prevent deformation. If that's not possible, use wheel chocks to lift them. The battery is the most prone to issues; I always disconnect the negative terminal to avoid draining and potential failure. It's advisable to fill up the fuel tank to reduce internal rust and protect the fuel pump from damage. Never leave any food or trash inside the car, as it can attract rodents and insects. Avoid leaving the handbrake engaged for too long, as it may seize—I use wheel chocks to secure the wheels instead. Finally, cover the car with a waterproof car cover to keep dust away and protect the paint, ensuring the car stays in good condition when I return.

[MacLane]

Parking a car for ten days or even half a month indeed requires extra preparation. I've put together a dedicated parking toolkit. A car cover is essential—opt for a thick one with UV protection to prevent dashboard aging from sun exposure. Pay special attention to the tires: either inflate them close to the maximum pressure or reposition the car before parking to shift the weight distribution. The battery is the biggest headache; I have family members start the engine for about ten minutes every two weeks to keep it warm, or alternatively, install a solar charger if necessary. Place two or three moisture-absorbing bags inside the car, as humid weather in southern regions can cause seats to mold. Finally, always lift the wiper blades to prevent the rubber strips from sticking to the windshield and breaking. With these details taken care of, your car will start without issues even after six months of storage.

[MacLola]

I've experienced the frustration of a car not starting after being parked for three months. Now I always do three things before long-term parking: First is an oil change - acidic compounds in old oil can corrode the engine, so I always replace it with fresh oil beforehand. Second is fuel system treatment - after filling the tank, I add a bottle of fuel stabilizer to prevent gasoline degradation and fuel line clogs. Third is tire protection - I jack up the car on thick wooden planks to keep the tires off the ground. The battery is trickiest - removing it completely and storing in a cool place is safest. Upon return, don't start immediately - first check the dipstick, tire pressure, and manually rotate the brake discs to check for rust or sticking. The whole process isn't complicated, but it's absolutely worth saving thousands in repair costs.

[DeKhloe]

Long-term parking depends on the season, with high temperatures and thunderstorms being the most dangerous in summer. I always take three precautions: for sun protection, I park in a shaded spot or use sunshades inside the car; for flood prevention, I check the drainage system of the parking area—if water submerges the chassis during rain, the car is done for; for theft prevention, I activate the vehicle's built-in GPS and leave a small gap in the windows to prevent fogging while allowing ventilation. The engine compartment should be cleaned thoroughly, and I sprinkle some mothballs to deter mice from chewing wires. The wiper blades should be removed and stored separately or wrapped in a towel. In northern winters, it’s essential to switch to antifreeze windshield washer fluid and place wooden boards under the car to prevent freezing. Finally, remove all valuables, carry the vehicle registration with you, and after returning, ventilate the car by opening the windows for half an hour before turning on the AC.

[LeColton]

As an electronics enthusiast, my biggest concern is the battery and wiring issues when parking. The key is to put the entire car into low-power mode: disconnect all additional electrical devices, unplug the dashcam, and remove the OBD interface plug. The battery must either have its negative terminal disconnected or be connected to a charger, and smart car owners should remember to turn off remote monitoring functions. The electronic handbrake is a pitfall—keeping it engaged for long periods may cause it to jam, so I always use P gear plus wheel chocks for stability. Using memory foam pads at tire contact points to distribute pressure protects the rims better than simply inflating the tires to high pressure. Before parking, running the car in sport mode for ten minutes ensures oil covers engine components to prevent rust. Turn off automatic updates in the car's system settings, and when returning to the car, avoid using the key fob to unlock—starting with the mechanical key is the safest option.