···
Log in / Register

What is the trunk size of the Edge?

6Answers
DelLola
09/03/2025, 02:36:27 AM

The trunk dimensions of the Edge are 4864mm in length, 2179mm in width, and 1720mm in height. Below is an introduction to the Edge: 1. Overview: The Changan Ford mid-size SUV, the Ford Edge PLUS, was officially launched on December 22, 2020, with a total of 6 models available. 2. Concept: The Ford Edge PLUS, while maintaining the core of high-performance genes, has achieved a full-dimensional evolution from exterior and interior design to luxury quality and smart technology. It is not only the performance king in the mid-size SUV segment but also its spacious interior can meet users' diversified needs. 3. Development: The all-new domestically produced Ford Edge was unveiled at the Changan Ford Night during the 2014 Guangzhou Auto Show. As a strategic model, the Ford Edge made its debut, symbolizing forging ahead with determination and defining new boundaries.

Was this review help?
117
Share
LaCarlos
09/15/2025, 04:01:35 AM

Speaking of the Edge's trunk, I've been driving this car for several years as the main vehicle for family trips, and the space is truly impressive. The standard volume is about 1,110 liters, and with the rear seats folded down, it can exceed 2,000 liters. Last week, I took the whole family camping—two large suitcases, a tent, and a grill fit in easily, with room to spare for miscellaneous items. Folding the rear seats is super convenient, just press a button. For daily school runs with the kids, the trunk can hold two backpacks and a large shopping bag without feeling cramped. Compared to other SUVs in the same class, the Edge's trunk is over 1 meter wide and quite tall, making it especially practical for items like strollers or tall objects. The interior also features anti-slip mats and hooks, so groceries or water bottles won’t slide around. Overall, the dimensions are well-balanced, making it suitable for both daily commutes and trips—no wonder so many people recommend it as a family car.

Was this review help?
6
Share
Expand All
DiOscar
10/29/2025, 04:40:45 AM

Let's talk about the Edge's trunk from an engineering perspective. I recall the official data shows a standard cargo volume of around 1,110 liters, which can expand to approximately 2,038 liters with the rear seats folded down. The width is about 1.05 meters, and the depth extends from over 1 meter to nearly 1.8 meters – enough to lay flat three to four large suitcases. Last year's test proved it could easily hold over 20 cases of bottled water, demonstrating excellent space utilization. The details: the trunk opening is sufficiently wide for effortless loading of bulky items, featuring a flat floor and a flexible mesh divider system for smart compartmentalization. Its dimensions rank mid-to-upper tier among Japanese and American SUVs – slightly larger than a CR-V, for instance. I particularly noted the 12V power outlet at the base, handy for camping gear. Maintenance is straightforward too, requiring only regular cleaning unlike some dust-prone models. While specs may seem sterile, its real-world performance is robust, making it ideal for hands-on DIY enthusiasts.

Was this review help?
4
Share
Expand All
OSteven
12/12/2025, 09:00:50 PM

I often go on road trips, and the Edge's trunk is truly a travel companion. The standard space is over 1,100 liters, expandable to more than 2,000 liters, which is more than enough for long-distance packing: two large backpacks, folding chairs, and a small fridge can all fit in. I remember the last time I went to Qinghai Lake, the rear seats were easily folded down into a flat bed, perfect for placing a sleeping bag. The dimensions are more than sufficient for daily scenarios, such as weekend getaways—three suitcases and a tool bag don’t even fill it up. The interior height is generous, so tall equipment doesn’t feel cramped. In terms of related features, it also comes with a hands-free liftgate function—just kick your foot to open it when carrying heavy items, saving effort and ensuring safety. Compared to compact cars, this space saves me the hassle of multiple trips to load up, making travel more enjoyable and efficient. I highly recommend it to frequent travelers.

Was this review help?
16
Share
Expand All
VanMackenzie
02/01/2026, 10:05:32 PM

As young parents, the Edge's trunk has been a huge help. Starting at 1,110 liters, it expands to 2,000 liters with the rear seats folded, easily handling daily child pickups and shopping trips—one stroller plus two large shopping bags is no problem. The thoughtful dimensions feature moderate depth, allowing bag placement without bending over, and weekend getaways with bicycles are a breeze. I tried the one-touch seat folding feature, instantly freeing up massive space—far better than forced cramming. Practical interior hooks and tie-downs keep groceries and items secure without spills. Compared to my neighbor's car, the Edge's trunk is larger and more flexible, especially with the perfect height for stroller loading. Safety is thorough too, featuring anti-pinch protection, so no worries about kids getting hurt. Overall, it's hassle-free and efficient—a real asset for family life.

Was this review help?
13
Share
Expand All
Sienna
04/27/2026, 03:05:47 PM

I use the Edge for part-time delivery, and its trunk size is incredibly practical. The standard capacity is over 1,100 liters, expandable to more than 2,000 liters, equivalent to fitting a dozen large courier boxes without a hitch. The width and depth are ample, making it easy to stash toolboxes and goods bags daily. With the rear seats folded down, the floor is perfectly flat, preventing items from jostling during transit. The dimensions are roomier than I expected—handling one-meter-tall cargo is effortless, and the interior features anti-slip grooves to prevent sliding during sudden brakes. Additional features like power outlets make charging devices convenient. Maintenance is simple—just a quick wipe keeps it clean. This space doubles work efficiency, eliminating the need for multiple trips like with smaller cars, proving its strong practicality.

Was this review help?
7
Share
Expand All
More Q&A

How to tell if your thermostat is stuck open in your vehicle?

A thermostat stuck open will prevent your engine from reaching its normal operating temperature, leading to clear symptoms like a consistently low temperature gauge, poor cabin heater output, reduced fuel economy, and often a diagnostic trouble code P0128 . Ignoring it increases fuel costs and risks long-term engine damage. The primary role of the thermostat is to regulate coolant flow. A properly functioning unit stays closed when the engine is cold, allowing it to warm up quickly. Once the engine reaches its design temperature—typically between 195°F and 220°F (90°C-104°C) for modern vehicles—the thermostat opens to allow coolant into the radiator. A stuck-open thermostat bypasses this crucial warm-up phase, causing continuous overcooling. Key Symptoms to Diagnose a Stuck-Open Thermostat: Persistently Low Engine Temperature Gauge: The most direct sign. The needle will stay at or below the "C" mark or in the blue zone, even after 15-20 minutes of driving, especially noticeable at highway speeds where increased airflow exacerbates cooling. Inadequate Cabin Heating: The heater core relies on hot engine coolant. If the coolant never gets hot, the blower will only push out lukewarm or cool air, a major comfort issue in cold climates. Triggering of Diagnostic Code P0128: The vehicle's Engine Control Unit (ECU) monitors how long it takes to reach operating temperature. If it's too slow, it will log a P0128 code ("Coolant Thermostat Rationality Check"). While a scan tool is needed to read this code, its presence strongly points to a faulty thermostat. Noticeable Drop in Fuel Economy: The ECU compensates for a perceived "cold" engine by enriching the fuel mixture. Industry data indicates this can reduce fuel efficiency by 5-15% , as the engine remains in a prolonged warm-up mode. Temperature Gauge Drops Under Certain Conditions: When driving downhill or at sustained high speeds, the gauge may drop even lower due to maximized coolant flow and air cooling through the radiator. Consequences of Prolonged Driving with a Stuck-Open Thermostat: Consequence Explanation & Impact Increased Fuel Consumption The enriched fuel mixture directly leads to more frequent refueling and higher operating costs. Catalytic Converter Damage Unburned excess fuel can overheat and melt the converter's internal substrate, a repair often costing over $1,000. Accelerated Engine Sludge Formation Engines operating below temperature are more prone to moisture and fuel contamination in the oil, leading to sludge that reduces lubrication and engine life. Elevated Emissions Incomplete combustion from a rich mixture causes the vehicle to exceed designed emission standards. Verifying the issue is straightforward. After a cold start, feel the upper radiator hose. If it becomes warm within the first few minutes, coolant is circulating too early, indicating the thermostat is likely open. A confirmed diagnosis means replacement is necessary. Using an OEM-specification thermostat is recommended to restore proper engine temperature, cabin heat, fuel efficiency, and prevent costly secondary damage.
139
Share

How to tell if a car fuse is going bad?

A blown car fuse is confirmed by a visible break in its internal metal strip or a darkened, melted casing, directly causing a specific electrical component (like headlights or radio) to fail. The most reliable verification is a visual inspection or an electrical test using a multimeter. Consistently using a fuse with an amperage rating higher than specified can lead to wire damage and is a primary cause of premature failure. Visual inspection is the fastest initial diagnostic step. Locate your vehicle’s fuse panel (common under the dashboard, driver’s side, or in the engine bay). Using the provided plastic fuse puller, extract the fuse suspected of protecting the non-working circuit. Hold it to a light source. A good fuse will show an intact, continuous metal wire or blade connecting the two metal prongs inside the clear plastic body. A blown fuse will display a clear gap in that metal strip, or the plastic may be clouded, discolored, or have a metallic smear inside from the filament vaporizing. For fuses where the break is not obvious, electrical testing provides certainty . A digital multimeter set to continuity (often indicated by a diode symbol or sound wave icon) is the most precise tool. With the fuse removed, touch a probe to each of its metal caps or prongs. A reading near 0 ohms (or an audible beep) confirms continuity and a good fuse. No continuity (a reading of “OL” or infinity) confirms it’s blown. A test light can also be used with the fuse in place and the circuit powered: if the light illuminates on one test point but not the other, the fuse has failed. Understanding why fuses blow prevents misdiagnosis. A fuse is a deliberate weak link designed to protect the wiring. It fails due to a sudden overload (like a short circuit) or a sustained overcurrent. Simply replacing a blown fuse without addressing the root cause will likely result in another immediate failure. If a new fuse of the correct rating blows promptly, there is an underlying electrical fault—such as a damaged wire, faulty switch, or malfunctioning component—that requires professional diagnosis. Correct replacement is non-negotiable for safety. Fuses are color-coded and stamped with their amperage rating (e.g., 5A, 10A, 15A). Always replace a blown fuse with one of the identical amperage rating. Using a higher-amp fuse or, dangerously, bypassing it with metal foil (“jumping” the fuse) removes the circuit’s protective element, dramatically increasing the risk of overheating wires and an electrical fire. Vehicle owner’s manuals contain fuse panel diagrams that map each fuse to its protected circuit, which is essential for targeted troubleshooting.
168
Share

How to tell if car battery is AGM or lithium?

The most reliable way to identify your car battery type is to read the label on the battery casing for direct markings like "AGM," "Absorbent Glass Mat," or "Lithium-ion." If the label is missing or unreadable, a combination of weight, physical appearance, and price provides definitive clues. AGM batteries are significantly heavier and housed in standard black plastic, while lithium units are lightweight, often feature unique casing colors or Bluetooth, and carry a premium price tag. Start with a visual inspection of the battery's top or side label. Manufacturers are required to print the technology type. For AGM, look for "AGM," "Absorbent Glass Mat," or "VRLA" (Valve-Regulated Lead-Acid). For lithium, search for "Lithium-ion," "Li-ion," "LiFePO4," or "Lithium Iron Phosphate." This is the single most authoritative method. If the label is faded, the battery's weight is a primary differentiator . Due to their lead content, AGM batteries are substantially heavier. A typical Group 48 (H6) AGM battery weighs between 45 to 60 pounds (20-27 kg). In contrast, an equivalent lithium battery weighs roughly 50-70% less , often coming in at 15 to 25 pounds (7-11 kg). Lifting the battery can immediately indicate its chemistry. Examine the case material and design. AGM batteries are almost universally encased in a sealed, rectangular black plastic box with standard terminal placements. Lithium batteries frequently deviate from this norm; they may use aluminum casing for heat dissipation and come in colors like blue, silver, or green. Many also integrate a Bluetooth module for state-of-charge monitoring via a smartphone app. Consult your vehicle's owner's manual. The specifications section will list the original equipment manufacturer (OEM) recommended battery type. While an aftermarket replacement could differ, this gives a strong baseline for what the vehicle's charging system is designed to handle. Finally, consider the price point . Market data shows a clear cost separation. A standard AGM battery typically ranges from $200 to $350. A lithium automotive battery with comparable performance starts around $600 and can exceed $1,500. If you know the replacement cost, it strongly indicates the technology. For quick reference, here are the key comparative traits: Identification Method AGM Battery Indicator Lithium Battery Indicator Label Markings "AGM," "Absorbent Glass Mat," "VRLA" "Lithium-ion," "LiFePO4," "Li-ion" Average Weight 45-60 lbs (Group 48) 15-25 lbs (Comparable size) Case Appearance Black, standard plastic box Often colored (blue/silver), aluminum possible Technology Features Sealed, maintenance-free May include Bluetooth monitoring Typical Price Range $200 - $350 $600 - $1,500+ Never rely on a single characteristic if the label is gone. Cross-reference two or more of these factors—especially weight and price memory—for a confident identification. Installing the wrong battery type in a vehicle not designed for it can lead to charging system issues or safety hazards.
261
Share

How to tell if a car battery is AGM or standard?

The most reliable way to identify an AGM battery is to look for "AGM" or "VRLA" on its label. AGM batteries are sealed with a flat top, while standard flooded batteries have removable filler caps. Cars with automatic start-stop systems almost always use AGM or EFB batteries. If the label is unclear, your vehicle's owner's manual specifies the required type. Checking the battery's label provides definitive identification. Look for clear markings such as "AGM," "Absorbent Glass Mat," "VRLA" (Valve-Regulated Lead-Acid), or "Sealed Non-Spillable." These terms are industry-standard identifiers for AGM technology. If none of these are present, and you see terms like "Maintenance-Free" without the AGM designation, it is typically a standard flooded or enhanced flooded battery (EFB). Never assume; the label is the primary source of truth. Physically examining the battery is the next step. AGM batteries are completely sealed and maintenance-free , featuring a uniformly flat top surface with no accessible ports. In contrast, standard flooded (wet cell) batteries often have six removable round caps or a single elongated cover, allowing for water and electrolyte level checks. This design difference is a strong visual indicator. Your vehicle's technology is a major clue. Modern vehicles equipped with automatic start-stop (ISS) technology place high demands on the battery. The system requires a battery that can handle frequent deep discharges and rapid recharge cycles. AGM and EFB batteries are engineered for this purpose . Therefore, if your car has an auto start-stop function, it is highly probable the factory-installed battery is an AGM type. Installing a standard battery in such a vehicle can lead to rapid failure and potential electrical system issues. Practical characteristics like weight and cost offer secondary clues. Due to their denser internal construction and lead plates, an AGM battery is generally 15-30% heavier than a standard flooded battery of comparable size and capacity. Regarding price, AGM technology is more expensive to manufacture. Market data shows AGM batteries typically cost 50% to 100% more than their standard counterparts. If you're replacing a battery and notice a significant price difference or weight, it's a sign you're likely comparing AGM to standard. When in doubt, always consult your vehicle's owner's manual. The manual will specify the exact battery type, group size, and cold cranking amps (CCA) required by the manufacturer. This is the ultimate authority and ensures compatibility, protecting your car's sensitive electronics and charging system. For a quick comparison, refer to the key distinctions below: Feature AGM Battery Standard Flooded Battery Label Markings Clearly states "AGM," "VRLA," "Absorbent Glass Mat" May state "Maintenance-Free" but lacks AGM designation Top Design Sealed, completely flat top Often has removable filler caps (6 round or one long strip) Common Vehicle Fit Cars with auto start-stop, high-end electronics, EVs/HEVs Older models, base trims without advanced power demands Weight Heavier for same size Lighter Relative Cost Higher Lower Maintenance Sealed, zero maintenance May require periodic water topping (unless maintenance-free)
222
Share

How do you tell if your car has a tune?

You can determine if your car has a performance tune by checking for aftermarket hardware, using an OBD2 scanner to read live data (like boost pressure), having a dealership perform a deep ECU scan for flash counters, or looking for specific brand indicators like BMW's tamper dot. A combination of visual inspection, diagnostic tools, and professional verification provides the most reliable confirmation, as tunes can sometimes be flashed back to stock to hide their presence. Physical Hardware Inspection The most straightforward method is a visual check for common performance hardware that typically accompanies an ECU tune, especially for Stage 2 or higher modifications. Look under the hood and underneath the car for non-factory parts. Key items include: Aftermarket Air Intake: Replaces the stock airbox with a less restrictive filter and piping. Upgraded Downpipe/High-Flow Catalytic Converter: A larger-diameter exhaust section immediately after the turbo, often a prerequisite for significant power gains. Upgraded Intercooler: A larger or more efficient unit to handle increased heat from higher boost. Finding these parts strongly suggests the engine's software has been altered to take advantage of the improved airflow and exhaust flow. OBD2 Diagnostic Scan & Data Logging Using a capable diagnostic tool provides direct evidence. Plug an OBD2 scanner or a dedicated tuning interface (like HP Tuners, Cobb Accessport, or VCDS for VAG cars) into the port under the dashboard. You're looking for real-time engine parameters that exceed factory specifications. The most telling metric is boost pressure . For example, a stock Volkswagen Golf GTI might target around 15 psi of boost. A tuned GTI could consistently see 22-25 psi or more under full throttle. Consistently logging boost, ignition timing, and fuel trims that are significantly higher or more aggressive than known stock values is a clear indicator of a tune. Dealership or Specialist Diagnostic Scan Professional technicians have tools to access deeper ECU data that consumer scanners cannot. They can check two critical items: Flash Counter/TD1 Flag: The ECU logs how many times it has been reprogrammed. A count higher than expected (e.g., from factory updates) suggests aftermarket flashing. Volkswagen/Audi dealers specifically check for a "TD1" flag, which voids powertrain warranty and indicates an unauthorized tune was detected. Ignition Cycle Counter vs. Mileage: After a tune is flashed, a separate counter for key ignition cycles often resets. If a car has 50,000 miles but the ECU shows only a few hundred ignition cycles since its last programming, it signals a recent reflash, potentially to revert to stock before sale. Brand-Specific & Secondary Indicators BMW's "Tamper Dot": Many modern BMWs will display a permanent red dot next to the mileage in the instrument cluster if the DME (ECU) has been tampered with, even if flashed back to stock. A dealer scan may also reveal fault code "S0777" for tuning detection. VIN Inquiry with Tuners: Major tuning companies like APR, Unitronic, Dinan (BMW), and Cobb keep databases of vehicles they've sold software licenses to. Contacting them with your VIN can confirm if a tune was officially purchased for the car. Digital Performance Displays: Some cars with built-in power meters (e.g., BMW M models, Mercedes-AMG) will display the calculated engine output. A tune will cause these displays to show inflated, non-stock horsepower and torque figures. Piggyback Modules: Physically inspect the engine bay and near the ECU for an added "piggyback" tuning box (like a JB4 or RaceChip). These devices intercept sensor signals and are a form of tuning, though not a direct ECU flash. The Caveat: Flash-Back to Stock A seller may revert the ECU to its original factory software. This eliminates the performance gains and clears most real-time data evidence, making detection difficult for a basic test drive. However, the digital footprints mentioned above—flash counters, ignition cycle mismatch, or manufacturer-specific flags—often remain and require a professional scan to uncover. A pre-purchase inspection that includes such a scan is the best defense against a hidden tuning history.
282
Share

How to tell if a relay is bad on a car?

A faulty car relay is confirmed by a lack of audible click when powered, no continuity between pins 30 and 87 when activated, or a coil resistance outside the standard 50-200 ohm range. The most reliable diagnostic methods are swapping with a known-good relay or using a multimeter for electrical testing. Common Symptoms of a Bad Relay The most direct signs are component failure and unusual relay behavior. If a device like the fuel pump, horn, or A/C compressor fails to activate, the relay is a primary suspect. Listen for the absence of a faint but audible "click" when the component is switched on—a silent relay often indicates a failed coil. Intermittent operation, where the component works sporadically, points to internal contact wear. Physically, inspect the relay for burn marks, corroded terminals, or a melted plastic casing, which are clear visual indicators of failure. Step-by-Step Diagnostic Methods You can diagnose a bad relay without advanced tools using the swap test. Locate the fuse box and identify a relay with the same part number controlling a non-critical function. Swap the suspected relay with this known-good one. If the previously faulty component now works, the original relay is defective. This method is over 90% effective for confirming a total relay failure in field conditions. For a definitive electrical diagnosis, a multimeter is required. First, test the coil resistance by measuring across terminals 85 and 86. A reading between 50 and 200 ohms is normal; an open circuit (infinite resistance) or a very low reading confirms a bad coil. Next, test the switch function . Apply 12 volts to terminals 85 and 86 to activate the relay. You should hear a click. Then, measure for continuity (near zero resistance) between terminals 30 and 87. No continuity with power applied means the internal switch is faulty. Understanding Relay Terminal Functions Accurate testing requires knowing the four key terminals. Terminals 85 and 86 are for the control circuit (the coil). Terminal 30 is the common power input from the battery, and terminal 87 is the output to the component. When 12V is applied to the coil (85/86), it creates a magnetic field that closes the internal switch, connecting terminals 30 and 87 to deliver high-current power. The table below summarizes their roles: Terminal Function 85 & 86 Low-current control circuit (coil). 30 High-current power input from battery. 87 High-current output to the component. If a relay fails any of these tests—swap, click, coil resistance, or switch continuity—replacement is necessary. Using a relay with an incorrect current rating can lead to premature failure, so always match the part number or specifications exactly.
160
Share
Cookie
Cookie Settings
© 2025 Servanan International Pte. Ltd.