What is the reason why the 2012 manual Cruze cannot be shifted out of gear?

[KarterFitz]

The clutch is not fully depressed; pressing the clutch pedal twice should resolve the issue. Below is some related information about the Cruze:1. Exterior: The most noticeable change in the Cruze's exterior is the alteration of the rear emblem, where "330T" and "320" are used to distinguish between models equipped with the 1.4T turbocharged engine and the 1.5L engine, respectively. This makes the Cruze the second Chevrolet model after the Equinox to adopt a new naming system with three digits and letters for the rear emblem.2. Powertrain: The Cruze will continue to be equipped with the 1.5L and 1.4T engines, with maximum power outputs of 114 horsepower and 150 horsepower, respectively. In terms of the transmission system, the 1.4T model will be paired with a 7-speed dual-clutch transmission, while the 1.5L model will be matched with either a 6-speed automatic transmission or a 6-speed manual transmission.

[IsabelleFitz]

Bro, it's super common for a 2012 manual Cruze to have trouble shifting out of gear. I've driven one and know the deal. The main issues lie in the clutch system—like the master cylinder aging and leaking hydraulic fluid, the slave cylinder seizing up, the clutch disc wearing unevenly, or the transmission bearings getting loose. When you press the clutch pedal, if it feels spongy with no resistance, it’s likely air in the hydraulic system or a fluid leak. If the pedal won’t budge, the release bearing might be jamming the driveshaft. Also, a heads-up: not changing the manual transmission fluid for too long can make the synchros stiff, making shifting even harder. Check these spots ASAP, or you’ll risk snapping the shift fork by forcing the lever.

[Hank]

My friend's same-model Cruze also had this issue. The repair shop said it was a problem with the shift mechanism. The plastic latch inside the gear lever base tends to age and crack, jamming the cable or the gear lever ball head. It's more noticeable when starting the car cold in winter, as the metal parts expand and contract with temperature changes, increasing the gap and causing gear jamming. Additionally, if the clutch pedal travel switch has poor contact, the car's computer might think you're pressing the clutch, preventing gear disengagement. If shifting from reverse to neutral feels particularly stiff, it's likely due to wear or deformation of the guide pin. It's best to have a professional shop lift the transmission for inspection. Small parts cost just a few dozen bucks, which is much better than damaging the entire transmission.

[OMichael]

I've encountered too many cases of difficulty in shifting out of gear in manual transmissions during car repairs, which basically fall into three categories: first, excessive wear of the synchronizer, especially when the reverse gear lock ring teeth break and jam the gears; second, transmission oil that hasn't been changed for four or five years deteriorates, leading to insufficient lubrication and causing the shift fork to stick; and third, collapsed engine mounts causing the transmission to shift, which pulls the shift cable out of alignment. There's an emergency trick: depress the clutch fully again, rev the engine to 2000 RPM, and forcefully shift out of gear to temporarily disengage. However, this is only a temporary fix—the transmission needs to be disassembled to inspect and replace parts.