
The function of the lubrication oil system is to provide lubrication for the support bearings, thrust bearings, and turning gear of the turbine generator, supply backup oil for the hydrogen sealing system, and deliver pressure oil for the mechanical overspeed trip device. It consists of a lubrication oil tank, main oil pump, auxiliary oil pump, oil cooler, oil filter, overhead oil tank, valves, and piping components. The lubrication oil tank serves as the equipment for oil supply, recovery, sedimentation, and storage, and it contains a cooler. The cooler is used to cool the lubrication oil from the oil pump to control the oil temperature entering the bearings. The side wall of the oil tank is equipped with a liquid level indicator to monitor changes in the lubrication oil level within the tank.

Last week I just heard the mechanic talking about the lubrication system - it's literally the 'blood' of the engine! There are three key functions: first, it coats high-friction components like pistons and crankshafts with a protective film, reducing wear like an ice skater gliding; second, it carries away heat generated by metal friction to prevent the engine from turning into an iron grill; third, it doubles as a 'street sweeper', carrying carbon deposits and metal particles to the oil pan. I heard that if you use counterfeit oil during , the engine can be ruined within 5,000 kilometers. My friend's old car had its bearing shells completely grooved due to an oil pump failure, costing over 8,000 yuan for major repairs. Remember to regularly check the dipstick - if the viscosity is wrong or the oil turns black, change it immediately.

After driving a taxi for ten years, I know best how crucial engine oil is. Those few seconds during a cold start entirely on the oil pump to build pressure and protect the camshaft from dry friction. I used cheap mineral oil before, and during long summer trips, the oil temperature soared to 120°C, thinning the oil to water-like consistency, immediately triggering the dashboard warning light. Now I insist on using full synthetic oil, and the engine noise has been cut in half. The lubrication system also has a sealing function—the oil film formed by the engine oil can seal the piston ring gaps, ensuring stronger combustion chamber pressure. Our fleet had a batch of cars burning oil, which was caused by oil film sealing failure, with particularly noticeable blue smoke from the exhaust.

As an auto mechanic, I see it clearly every day when disassembling engines. Failed parts in the lubrication system are always disaster scenes: crankshafts with spiral scoring, stuck piston rings, and bearing shells melted into lead lumps. Modern cars' electronic oil pumps are even more delicate—sludge blockage can directly trigger the protection program to shut down the engine. There was one case where a female car owner didn't change the oil for two years, and the oil drained from the oil pan had solidified into chunks. Cleaning the oil passages took six hours. When choosing engine oil, pay close attention to the API and ACEA certification codes: use A3B4 for German cars and GF-6A for Japanese cars. Mixing them can damage the variable valve timing system.

I remember during auto repair class, the teacher used a cola bottle to demonstrate the lubrication system: the bottle bottom acted as the oil pan, the straw as the oil pump, and the bottle body as the oil passage. When pressure was insufficient, the camshaft at the top was like a straw failing to suck up cola. Nowadays, high-end cars feature active lubrication where the oil pump pre-supplies oil to bearings during braking. During the last , silver glitter was found in the engine oil, which the mechanic said was a sign of beginning bearing wear—delaying further would require a major overhaul. Choosing 0W-grade oil in winter is especially crucial; it flows normally even at -30°C, whereas using high-viscosity oil in older cars can cause severe wear during cold starts.

In the modified car scene, it's often said that 'oil pressure is the lifeline of performance cars.' I've witnessed the tragedy of lubrication failure at track days: high G-forces in corners causing oil starvation in turbocharged cars, leading to instant rod seizure. Nowadays, performance cars are equipped with racing oil pans featuring anti-slosh baffles. Regular car owners should pay attention to oil temperature, as protection sharply decreases beyond 130°C. Last time I inspected an engine with a borescope, the cylinder walls of a car with regular full synthetic oil changes still retained the original honing marks, while those using inferior oil had polished walls mirror-smooth. Remember, don't blindly trust so-called 'racing oils'—for daily driving, a high-temperature, high-shear 5W-30 is more practical.


