What does no driving signal mean?
3 Answers
No driving signal means there is interference in the surrounding signals. No signal in the reversing camera: It is very likely due to poor line contact. It is necessary to promptly check the wiring and the connection points of the vehicle installation to see if there is any loose connection. If there is, it will naturally cause abnormalities in the reversing camera. In this case, simply reconnect the loose parts properly. No signal in the dashcam: The reason for being unable to search for GPS signals is likely the result of mutual interference between electronic products. Due to the signal bands being too close, mutual interference occurs, meaning the car has no signal and cannot be located.
When you mention 'no starting signal,' it typically refers to the situation where you turn the key to start the car, but the dashboard lights remain completely dark, and the vehicle fails to ignite. As someone who's been working with cars for years, I'd say this issue is most likely due to a basic electrical circuit problem. It could be a blown fuse—a small piece of plastic that interrupts the current flow; loose or corroded battery terminals causing a power interruption; a worn-out or faulty ignition switch; or sometimes a relay malfunction, which acts like a sentinel controlling the current flow. I always remind younger folks to first check the fuse box location—it varies by car, often found under the steering wheel or in the engine bay. Try replacing the fuse; if that doesn’t work, test the voltage with a multimeter or seek professional repair. Forcing a start could worsen the issue, even damaging the ECU controller. Safety first—don’t delay towing for repairs. Regularly cleaning battery terminals and inspecting wiring for wear can prevent minor issues from escalating.
I experienced the embarrassment of 'no start signal' last year! The car was parked on the roadside and wouldn't start no matter what, with a completely dark dashboard. I was terrified, thinking the car was totaled. Later, I found out it was just a blown fuse—replacing a 50-cent part fixed it. It could also be a dead battery, which can be resolved with a jump-start or a new battery. However, deeper issues like a faulty relay might cost hundreds to repair. As someone who loves cars but is impatient, I recommend first checking yourself: pop the hood and inspect the fuse box—color-coded labels make it easy to replace with the manual's guidance. If the problem persists, call a tow truck immediately to avoid damaging more parts. Regular maintenance should include checking the battery’s condition—unlike me, who always forgets to inspect it.
