
This is likely the sound generated by the friction between the brake pads and brake discs, which is a normal occurrence. Detailed explanations are as follows: 1. The braking system of a car consists of the master cylinder, vacuum booster, brake caliper, brake pads, and brake discs. When the brake pedal is pressed, the brake pads clamp onto the brake discs, converting kinetic energy into heat to slow down the vehicle. 2. After pressing the brake pedal, the vacuum booster provides assistance, helping the driver to press the pedal more easily. Upon opening the engine hood, a black metal disc can be seen below the windshield on the driver's side—this is the vacuum booster. 3. In front of the vacuum booster is the master cylinder, which has a reservoir for holding brake fluid. The brake caliper, which contains pistons, serves as the brake slave cylinder.

















My old car made a squeaking noise when starting last time, and it turned out the suspension had aged. Rubber bushings harden and crack over time, causing rubber friction sounds when the chassis is compressed during startup. Another time, the brake pads didn’t retract properly, producing a metallic scraping sound when lightly braking while starting. If the engine mount rubber is damaged, the engine will shake and create a clunking sound at the moment of startup. Worn steering system ball joints are also a common cause, especially noticeable when turning while starting. It’s recommended to lift the car at a repair shop to inspect the chassis bushings and check the brake caliper retraction. Replace any aged parts as needed—safety comes first.

Starting noise requires identifying the sound location. A 'squeaking' sound from the engine compartment may indicate aging or slipping of the alternator belt - spraying water on it briefly can confirm (if noise disappears, it's belt-related). A 'clicking' sound from the chassis warrants attention to CV joint wear, especially noticeable during steering. For rear-wheel drive vehicles, check the driveshaft universal joint - metallic knocking sounds indicate looseness. Worn exhaust pipe rubber hangers cause dull rattling from pipe movement. Recommended method: Have someone listen outside during cold starts to easily locate faults. Pro tip: Regularly ask to tighten chassis bolts during maintenance, as many noises stem from loose fasteners.

If a new car makes a clicking noise when starting, it may be due to the brake discs being rusted and stuck. This is especially common after rain, and the sound will disappear after driving two kilometers, so no need to worry. For older cars, focus on checking the suspension tie rod ball joints—worn ones can produce a dull thumping sound. Worn inner CV joints on the half-shafts can cause a rhythmic clicking noise during straight-line starts. For automatic transmission cars, pay attention to the transmission mount bushings—damaged ones can produce a muffled thud during gear shifts. Cars with start-stop systems may experience belt squealing from the alternator during starts. First, simply inspect the undercarriage for any impacts or deformations, and check if stones are lodged in the tire treads, which can also cause a tapping sound.

Last week, my car made a constant rattling noise when starting, and it turned out to be a CV joint issue. During acceleration, the driveshaft bears tremendous torque, and if the CV boot is torn and lets sand in, it wears out the internal ball bearings. The noise gets louder when turning, and in severe cases, you might suddenly lose power. Also, check the control arm bushings—if they’re cracked more than 5mm, you’ll hear a metallic clunk during acceleration. If you’ve modified the suspension, inspect the strut mount bearings; a grinding noise while steering usually means they’re failing. The easiest way is to shine a flashlight under the chassis and check for cracked or leaking rubber components. For safety, don’t ignore it—unusual noises are often early warnings of major failures.

A friend's car just got repaired for abnormal noise when starting, which was caused by a torn engine mount rubber bushing. When the rubber ages, the engine vibration during startup can hit the frame, producing a clunking sound. For manual transmission cars, check the clutch release bearing—if the noise disappears when the clutch is pressed but returns when released, that's the issue. If the driveshaft center support bearing is faulty, rear-wheel-drive cars will emit a high-pitched whining noise when starting. Also, watch out for loose brake pad retaining clips, as the metal knocking sound is very sharp. Driving slowly over speed bumps helps protect the chassis components, and avoid parking with wheels on curbs. If the noise source can't be identified, recording the sound with a and playing it for the mechanic is the easiest solution.


