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What Causes Scooter Shaking During Takeoff?

2 Answers

WalterLynn

07/24/25 3:46pm

The reasons for scooter shaking during takeoff are as follows: 1. Friction Plate: The contact area between the friction plate and the clutch housing working surface is too small. Solution: Apply chalk to the surface of the clutch shoe friction plate, install the clutch, start the engine, and repeatedly accelerate-brake to stop the rear wheel. After several repetitions, remove the clutch to inspect the working contact surface of the shoe friction plate. Use a grinding wheel to polish the surface of the clutch shoe friction plate, ensuring the contact area between the friction plate and the clutch housing working surface exceeds 80% of the total area. 2. Clutch Friction Plate: Excessive wear of the clutch friction plate. Solution: Use a file to trim the chamfers at both ends of the clutch friction plate, increasing the chamfer size that has been reduced due to wear. 3. Clutch Shoe: Sticking of the clutch shoe on the pin. Solution: Clean and lubricate the installation pin (i.e., the drive plate pin) of the clutch shoe and the pin hole on the clutch shoe to eliminate sticking of the clutch shoe on the pin. 4. Small Spring: Damage to the small spring of the clutch shoe. Solution: Replace the three small tension springs of the clutch shoe, ensuring equal tension among them to eliminate the asynchronous engagement between the clutch friction plate and the clutch housing.

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VonPhoebe

08/11/25 8:46am

My scooter vibrates badly when starting, which is really annoying. From my experience, the most common issue is clutch slippage. Over time, the clutch wears out, leading to poor power transmission. Alternatively, it could be a loose or deformed drive belt, causing the body to shake while riding. I remember once it improved significantly after maintenance, but a few months later, the shaking returned. A check at the repair shop revealed the drive belt was too loose. Ignoring this could damage other components, like the engine gears or rear axle, making things worse. So, I recommend regular inspections of these parts, ideally every six months or every 2,000 kilometers. Replacing a new belt costs just a few hundred bucks and makes for a smoother ride. Also, don’t overlook ignition system or fuel line issues—they can indirectly cause vibrations and unstable starts. In short, address problems promptly; don’t delay.

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Differences Between First, Second, Third, and Fourth Gears in Cars

There are several differences between the first, second, third, and fourth gears in cars: 1. Different gear speeds: First gear is used for starting, with speeds up to 20 km/h; second gear is used between 20-40 km/h, while third gear can be used between forty to sixty km/h. 2. Different purposes: First gear is for starting, second gear is for transition, third gear is for slow speed, and fourth gear is for medium speed. When starting in first gear, it should be done as slowly as possible. First gear is generally used only when starting or turning. Third gear at 2500-3500 RPM provides suitable engine torque for overtaking or climbing steep slopes, but at this point, fuel consumption increases and engine noise becomes louder. Second gear at 2000-2500 RPM is more fuel-efficient (varies slightly depending on the engine), with moderate engine torque and relatively lower noise, making it suitable for normal driving. 3. Different driving conditions: First gear is the starting gear, used when the car begins to move. Its gear ratio is similar to reverse gear, so it is not suitable for sustained high-speed operation. Generally, once the car has gained momentum, you can shift to second gear. Second gear is the passing gear, mainly used for navigating complex road surfaces and handling complicated situations. Third gear is the transition gear, primarily used for low-speed driving in urban areas. Depending on the situation, you can easily shift up to fourth gear for acceleration or down to second gear for deceleration.

Will points be deducted if the car head sweeps the line in an S-curve?

Points will not be deducted if the car head sweeps the line in an S-curve. During curve driving, if the wheels run over the road edge line, it will be considered a failure. Additionally, stopping for more than 2 seconds or not shifting to second gear or above will result in a 5-point deduction. Therefore, as long as the wheels do not cross the line, no points will be deducted. Here are some precautions for the right-angle turn in Subject 2 of the driving test: Before entering the curve, be sure to slow down the speed. The key is to align the car body properly. When the car body is aligned, drive slowly close to the outer edge line of the road and control the lateral spacing. It is advisable to keep the outer wheels about 30cm away from the outer edge line and maintain parallel movement. When the car head approaches the turning point, do not delay in turning the steering wheel sharply. When the front bumper aligns with the turning point, quickly turn the steering wheel to the limit position (left or right). Avoid pressing the accelerator pedal too hard. First, check if the car can pass ahead, then move forward slowly. For right-angle turns that you are unsure about, you can stop and check beforehand. During the turn, always pay attention to the movement of the car body and the position changes of the wheels. If conditions allow, you can pass slowly under someone else's guidance. Keep track of the rear wheels in the rearview mirror and remember to turn the steering wheel back in time. When the car head approaches the turning point of the right-angle turn, promptly turn the steering wheel back. When the car head turns to the new direction, gradually straighten the wheels to make the car move forward quickly. At the same time, you can also observe the rearview mirror to check the movement of the rear wheels. When the rear wheels are about to pass the turning point, straighten the steering wheel.

What Causes Smoke from the Front of a Car?

There are many reasons why a car emits smoke, and the issue can be identified based on the color of the smoke, such as engine overheating, decreased cylinder pressure, etc. Below are the specific details: Reasons for white smoke from the front of a car: Generally, if white smoke persists from the car engine even in a warmed-up state, it could be due to two scenarios: a small fuel injection advance angle causing incomplete combustion, or minor water leakage in the cylinder liner or water in the fuel. White smoke during a cold start, especially in low temperatures, which disappears as the engine warms up, is a normal phenomenon. Reasons for black smoke from the front of a car: An imbalanced air-fuel ratio; decreased cylinder pressure; early fuel injection timing (excessive fuel injection advance angle) can cause black smoke; failure of the smoke limiter on the fuel injection pump can also lead to black smoke during rapid acceleration; malfunctioning exhaust brake system. If severe black smoke is observed, other issues should also be considered. Reasons for blue smoke from the front of a car: Blue smoke from a car engine is often caused by "burning engine oil." In such cases, check for wear in the engine cylinder liner, "stuck piston rings," misaligned rings, aging or deformed valve seals, excessive valve guide clearance, etc., which may also be accompanied by crankcase blow-by. Severe oil discharge from the turbocharger can also cause some oil to enter the cylinder through the intake tract, resulting in "blue smoke." Therefore, during routine maintenance, the turbocharger's oil discharge should be checked, and any oil in the connecting line between the turbocharger and the intercooler should be promptly cleaned.

What is the difference between with and without a lens?

There are several differences between having a lens and not having one: 1. A lens can focus the car's light, ensuring optimal illumination when the light shines on the road. 2. Without a lens, the car's light effect will be scattered, producing glare that can impair the vision and safety of oncoming drivers. 3. Under the same lighting conditions, a light source with a lens is 3-5 times stronger in terms of distance, width, and brightness compared to one without a lens. Having a lens enhances safety during nighttime driving.

Why can't the dash cam see the rear traffic condition?

The reasons why the rear camera of the dash cam does not display are as follows: 1. Loose plug: Since the dash cam plug is always inserted in the interface, when the vehicle is moving, the vibration and shaking of the body may cause the plug to loosen. You can unplug and replug the plug and observe whether the screen responds. If there is still no response after multiple attempts, the cause of the loose plug can be ruled out. 2. Wiring issue: Due to the uniqueness of the camera wiring, it is recommended that the owner not attempt to repair it themselves. It is best to go to a professional after-sales repair point for inspection and repair.

What are the dimensions of the Volvo XC90 in terms of length, width, and height?

Volvo XC90 has a body length of 4950mm, a width of 2008mm, and a height of 1775mm. Below is some relevant information about the Volvo XC90: 1. Introduction: The Volvo XC90 is not only the top model in the Volvo XC series but also the first all-wheel-drive, full-time SUV model introduced globally by Volvo. 2. Exterior: The Volvo XC90 Sport Edition offers a distinctive and passionate red body color, paired with dual chrome exhaust pipes and enlarged 19-inch aluminum alloy wheels.

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