What are the reasons for the burner flameout after 5 seconds of ignition?
2 Answers
There are many reasons for the burner flameout after ignition: unstable gas supply causing flame fluctuation and extinguishment, flame detector failure during operation where the flame detection probe is grounded or too dirty to detect normal flame, resulting in flameout; circuit faults such as unstable power supply or phase loss, causing flameout during the process, etc. 1. When the accessories are not damaged, the reasons are: the most common is the flame signal problem, where there is no sensing, weak sensing, or signal transmission failure. This fault usually results in flameout within 10 seconds of ignition. Internal pressure issue, which means the current power of the burner does not match the overall pressure formed by combustion gases in the equipment combustion chamber or flue. This fault often results in a flameout after hearing a loud bang or strong breathing sound during ignition. 2. Additional information: The burner's oil nozzle should be properly installed and the ignition electrode should be adjusted correctly, the motor rotation direction should be correct, the external circuit connections should meet the requirements, and a cold-state simulation of the burner should be conducted based on the circuit conditions to observe that all components of the equipment during operation should be normal and the flame detection protection part should function properly.
Oh, I've also experienced the annoying issue of my car starting and then immediately stalling—it's like the car just woke up and then fell asleep again. The main problems are usually too much carbon buildup on the spark plugs, resulting in weak ignition sparks that can't sustain combustion; or a faulty fuel pump, causing insufficient fuel supply; or sensors like the air flow meter malfunctioning, leading the ECU to misjudge the air-fuel ratio and shut down the engine automatically. Another issue could be a blocked air intake—like having a stuffy nose—where air can't get in, destabilizing the air-fuel mixture and causing the engine to stall. Every time I DIY fix it, I first remove the spark plugs to check if they're covered in black soot—if they're dirty, I replace them with new ones. Then, I listen to see if the fuel pump sounds normal—saving both money and effort. A reminder to everyone: don't delay fixing this, as breaking down on the road is dangerous. Get it sorted in time for worry-free driving.