To turn off a car horn, the immediate solution is usually to press the center of the steering wheel where the horn pad is located. If the horn is stuck sounding continuously, this is often due to a malfunction in the horn switch mechanism in the steering wheel, a faulty relay, or a problem with the clock spring. The fastest way to silence it is to locate and pull the horn fuse or relay from the vehicle's fuse box. This is a temporary, safe fix that allows you to address the underlying issue without the noise.
A continuously blaring horn is typically an electrical issue. The horn circuit is relatively simple: pressing the horn pad completes a circuit, sending power to a relay, which then activates the horn itself. When it gets stuck, the problem is often a seized relay or a horn button that is physically jammed. The fuse box is your first stop; consult your owner's manual for its location (often under the dashboard or in the engine bay). The diagram on the fuse box lid will identify the horn fuse.
| Common Causes of a Stuck Horn | Approximate Repair Cost (USD) | Typical DIY Difficulty |
|---|
| Stuck Horn Relay | $15 - $40 (for part) | Easy |
| Jammed Horn Pad/Switch | $50 - $200 (for part) | Moderate |
| Faulty Clock Spring | $150 - $400 (for part) | Difficult/Professional |
| Short in Wiring Harness | $100 - $300 (diagnostic & repair) | Professional |
| Corroded Horn Connector | $0 - $20 (for cleaning supplies) | Easy |
If pulling the fuse stops the horn, you've confirmed an electrical fault. For a jammed switch, you might be able to free it by firmly pressing and wiggling the horn pad. However, issues like a broken clock spring (which allows the steering wheel to turn while maintaining electrical connections) require professional diagnosis and repair, as it can affect your airbag system. If you're not comfortable, having the car towed to a mechanic is the safest course of action.
