how to store a car for 6 months

[VanElla]

Properly storing a car for six months involves a methodical process to protect its mechanical systems and exterior. The core steps are: preparing the fuel system with a fuel stabilizer, inflating tires to their maximum recommended pressure, disconnecting the battery, and giving the car a thorough clean and wax. The goal is to prevent deterioration from inactivity, such as flat spots on tires or fuel varnishing in the engine.

Start with a full interior and exterior cleaning. Waxing the paint creates a protective barrier. Change the oil and filter to remove contaminants that could corroide engine internals. For the fuel tank, fill it nearly to the top to minimize air space where condensation can form, then add a fuel stabilizer and run the engine for 10 minutes to circulate the treated gas through the entire system.

Tire care is critical. Inflate all tires, including the spare, to the maximum pressure listed on the sidewall (often around 44-50 PSI) to prevent flat spots from developing. If possible, placing the car on jack stands to take the weight off the tires is the ideal solution.

Preparation Step	Key Action & Purpose	Recommended Product/Data Point
Fuel System	Add stabilizer to full tank; prevents gas degradation and corrosion.	Sta-Bil (treats up to 20 gallons)
Engine Oil	Change oil; removes acidic byproducts that can damage seals.	Conventional or Synthetic 5W-30
Battery	Disconnect negative terminal; prevents parasitic drain.	Battery Tender (trickle charger)
Tire Pressure	Inflate to max sidewall pressure; prevents flat-spotting.	44-50 PSI (check sidewall)
Moisture Control	Place moisture absorber inside; prevents mold/mildew.	DampRid container
Pest Deterrence	Place peppermint oil-soaked cotton balls; deters rodents.	100% Pure Peppermint Oil

For the battery, simply disconnecting the negative cable is a minimum. For optimal health, connect a battery maintainer (trickle charger) to keep it fully charged without overcharging. To deter pests, place dryer sheets or cotton balls with peppermint oil in the cabin and engine bay. Finally, use a breathable car cover if stored indoors; if outdoors, a waterproof and UV-resistant cover is essential. When you return, check tire pressures, reconnect the battery, and you should be good to go.

[LeAmelia]

Forget the complicated stuff. Here’s my garage method: fill the gas tank, dump in a fuel stabilizer, and drive it around the block. Then, I wash it, wax it, and pump the tires up real hard. I yank the battery negative cable—that’s the black one. I toss a few bags of silicate gel inside to keep it dry. That’s it. Car always starts right up after deer season. The key is keeping the gas from going bad and the battery from dying.

[VanJulia]

As someone who manages a fleet of seasonal rental vehicles, our storage protocol is precise. We document the mileage and condition, then perform an oil change. Tires are inflated 25% above normal pressure, and vehicles are parked on reinforced rubber mats, not directly on concrete. Each car gets a battery maintainer. We log the VIN and storage date into our system for timely rotation. This systematic approach ensures near-100% readiness after storage with minimal issues.

[LeCecilia]

I learned the hard way after my classic Mustang’s brake lines corroded. Now, I go further. After all the standard prep, I spray a protectant like Boeshield T-9 on all the undercarriage components and suspension parts. I also stuff a rag in the tailpipe and an intake cover over the air filter housing to block critters. It’s about thinking like a mouse—if there’s a warm, dark tube, they’ll move in. A little extra effort saves thousands in repairs.