How to Replace an Oil Filter?

[VonAaron]

Method for replacing the oil filter: 1. Remove the drain plug to drain the engine oil; 2. After draining, clean the drain plug and reinstall it, tightening it to the specified torque of 30 Nm; 3. Use an oil filter wrench to loosen the oil filter; 4. Apply engine oil to the O-ring of the new oil filter; 5. Hand-tighten the new oil filter onto the oil filter bracket. To ensure proper tightening, accurately identify the initial contact position between the filter's O-ring and the mounting surface; 6. After contact with the mounting surface, use the oil filter wrench to tighten the filter an additional three-quarters of a turn, with a tightening torque of 15 Nm.

[AvaFitz]

Changing the oil filter at home is actually quite simple, I've done it several times myself. First, you need to locate that black canister-like component under the car and loosen it counterclockwise with a professional wrench. But remember, before unscrewing the oil filter, you must first loosen the drain plug to drain the old oil completely, otherwise oil will leak everywhere. Apply a layer of new oil to lubricate the rubber seal of the new oil filter, then hand-tighten it until it contacts the surface, and finally use a tool to tighten it half a turn more. Don't overtighten it, or it'll be a pain to remove next time. When adding new oil, don't pour it all at once; keep about half a liter to check the dipstick level more safely.

[DelErin]

Choosing the right tools for replacing the oil filter can save you a lot of effort. I usually keep a three-claw oil filter wrench handy—it can grip filters even in tight, hard-to-reach spots. Make sure to park the car on level ground and engage the handbrake before crawling underneath. When removing the old filter, remember to place a pan underneath to catch the used oil, as it holds quite a bit. Before installing the new filter, wipe the mounting surface clean with your fingers—any grit can compromise the seal. Many people forget to pre-soak the filter media with fresh oil through the fill hole, but this step actually helps reduce the brief oil starvation during startup.

[Beau]

Changing the oil filter is ultimately a delicate task. Last time I watched the mechanic operate, I noticed the details—they always wipe the mounting base spotless with a rag after unscrewing the old filter. Applying too much oil on the sealing ring can actually cause leaks; a thin, even layer works best. The installation technique matters too: pressing the palm against the filter housing and rotating it vertically prevents deformation better than forcing it with tools. The most surprising part was pre-filling the filter with oil—for my off-road vehicle with a vertically mounted filter, skipping this step means waiting several seconds for oil pressure to build up after startup.

[DiKinsley]

Key steps in five: drain old oil, remove old filter, clean the base, install new filter, add new oil. Tools needed: oil drain pan, gloves, oil filter wrench. For cars with hard-to-reach positions, it's recommended to place a brick under the right front wheel for more working space. Note: Never change oil when the engine is hot. Last week, a friend didn't wait for cooling before removing the filter, resulting in a half-arm burn. After replacement, start the engine and let it idle for two minutes, focusing on checking for oil leaks around the filter edges and drain plug.