
Diagnostic methods for faults in an electronically controlled ignition system are as follows: 1. Electronically controlled ignition system: Typically, an ignition coil consists of two main coils—the primary coil and the secondary coil. These two coils play a key role in ignition by converting voltage from low to high. Since the primary coil has more turns than the secondary coil, the ignition coil can transform the vehicle's low voltage into high voltage. 2. Principle: When current is conducted to the primary coil, electrical energy is converted into magnetic energy within the primary coil, gradually forming a strong magnetic field around the coil, which stores the magnetic energy in the coil's iron core. Generally, the coil is equipped with a switching device. When the switching device disconnects the primary coil's circuit, the magnetic field rapidly decreases due to the absence of current, and the secondary coil, having fewer turns, induces a very high voltage. Understanding this principle allows for diagnostic troubleshooting when a fault in the ignition system is initially suspected.

When I encounter ignition system issues while repairing a car, such as the engine failing to start or jerking after starting, I start with the simpler checks. I usually first inspect the spark plugs. If they are burnt out or the gap is incorrect, the spark won't ignite; old spark plugs or excessive carbon buildup can also affect ignition. Next, I check the ignition coil—if it's aged, it may cause weak or no spark. The wiring connections also need a look, as sometimes wires can age, short-circuit, or become loose. Low battery voltage could also be the culprit, so I use a multimeter to check if it's above 12 volts. If all these are normal, the issue might be a faulty computer module, which requires an OBD scanner to read the fault codes. I've managed to fix it myself a few times, but if I can't figure it out, I take the car to the repair shop immediately—prolonged ignition problems can harm the engine.

I remember one time my car had difficulty starting, and diagnosing ignition issues requires a step-by-step approach. First, check if the spark plugs are in good condition—pull them out to see if the electrodes are blackened or cracked, as gaps that are too small or too large won't work. Then, test whether the ignition coil connectors are secure, and use a test light or multimeter to measure the output current. If there's no spark, the coil might be burnt out. If the car has a distributor or electronic ignition module, check if the rotor turns smoothly. If there's oxidation or poor contact at the wiring connections, cleaning the connectors might fix it. These basic checks can solve most issues, but for more complex faults like ECU control failure, it's best to take it to a trusted repair shop. Don't forget to regularly maintain the spark plugs and clean the throttle body to prevent minor issues.

To diagnose ignition issues, I typically start with obvious symptoms. If the car suddenly won't start, first check the condition of the spark plugs - frequent burning out or failure to spark indicates a problem. Then examine whether the ignition coil is overheating or damaged. For wiring, pay attention to loose connections or aged/exposed wires causing short circuits. Use a voltmeter to test if the battery has sufficient charge, as excessively low starting voltage affects the system. If initial checks don't reveal the cause, consider whether the control module is malfunctioning - an OBD tool can provide error codes which are extremely helpful. Always disconnect power during repairs to avoid electric shock - safety comes first. Finally, I recommend consulting a specialist for diagnosis as soon as possible to prevent being stranded on the road.


