How to Deal with Rust Spots on Your Car by Yourself?

[Kingston]

You can use ultra-fine water sandpaper dipped in water to gently sand off the rust spots, then wipe them completely clean and apply a layer of primer to ensure the rust does not spread or worsen. Apply toothpaste in small circular motions over the scratches. After rain or washing the car, reapply to reduce the visibility of the scratches and also to isolate and prevent rust.

[LaJoanna]

Don't rush to the repair shop when you find rust on your car - many small spots can be handled yourself. First, use sandpaper to thoroughly grind the rusted area until the bare metal shows. Remember to wear a mask while sanding, as inhaling those rust particles isn't good. After cleaning the surface, apply a thin coat of rust-preventive primer, then use matching topcoat paint for touch-up after it dries completely. Last time I dealt with small rust spots on my door edges, I specifically bought a mini spray can kit - easy to use and leaves no traces. After repair, it's best to apply a layer of car wax for protection, especially after highway driving in rain or snow when you should promptly rinse the undercarriage. During regular car washes, don't just focus on the body shell - carefully dry water accumulation points like wheel arches and door seams, otherwise you'll have to redo the work next year.

[McAlan]

Last time I dealt with rust spots under the car myself, it was quite rewarding. The preparation tools are simple: rust remover, several sheets of sandpaper in different grits, filler, and spray paint will suffice. First, spray the rust remover on the rust spots, wait ten minutes, and then scrub off the softened rust layer with a wire brush. Here's the key point: sanding should be done in three steps—coarse sandpaper for initial grinding, medium grit for smoothing, and fine sandpaper for polishing. Any dents need to be filled with filler and left to cure completely for eight hours. Finally, spray the paint from 30 centimeters away at a steady pace, applying thin layers each time—three coats will give the most natural finish. A reminder: don't push your luck with large-scale rust; once the metal is perforated, it's hard to fix yourself, and you should seek professional panel beating services.

[VanGrant]

DIY car paint repair requires the right approach. First, assess the rust level: surface rust can be sanded off with sandpaper, while rust that has penetrated the paint layer needs to be ground down until the metal shines. The most troublesome is blistering rust, as the metal underneath is often corroded. After rust removal, ensure the surface is completely dry—I prefer using a hairdryer on low heat for drying. Choose epoxy-based primer for strong adhesion. Color matching is crucial; I recommend using the fuel filler cap to match the paint at an auto parts store. Work in a windless, shaded area to avoid dust affecting the finish. Avoid washing the car for three days after repair to allow the new paint film to harden. For older cars, applying an undercoating to the chassis can help prevent rust.

[McJosiah]

Small rust spots can save you hundreds if handled yourself. Just prepare some rust remover and a car touch-up paint pen to get started. The key is thorough rust removal – painting over uncleaned rust is wasted effort. Be patient with the technique: lightly grind the edges into a slope and focus on sanding the center. After rust removal, don't paint directly; first wipe with metal treatment agent to prevent rust recurrence. Is the touch-up color too obvious? Here's a trick: choose a shade slightly lighter than the original, apply thinly and polish to blend with the base color. Before rainy season, check hidden areas like inner fenders and under trunk seals – prioritize treating any rust found there.