How to Clean Corroded Battery Terminals?
3 Answers
To properly handle corroded battery terminals, remove the terminals and spray them along with the wire connectors using an alkaline cleaning agent. After wiping them clean, apply a thin layer of grease or petroleum jelly, then securely fasten the wire connectors to the terminals using a wrench. Below are the classifications of automotive batteries: 1. Conventional Batteries: The plates of conventional batteries are made of lead and lead oxide, with the electrolyte being a sulfuric acid solution. Their main advantages are stable voltage and low cost; however, they have low specific energy (the amount of energy stored per kilogram of battery), short service life, and require frequent maintenance. 2. Dry-Charged Batteries: The full name is dry-charged lead-acid batteries. Their main feature is that the negative plate has a high charge storage capacity, allowing them to retain the stored charge for up to two years in a completely dry state. When in use, simply add the electrolyte and wait 20-30 minutes before use.
Last time I found the battery terminals covered in white-green crystals, I immediately turned off the engine and disconnected the negative cable. Prepared warm water mixed with baking soda, roughly three tablespoons per cup of water, then used an old toothbrush dipped in the solution to scrub the terminals vigorously. As the corrosion layer softened, small bubbles became quite noticeable, and stubborn spots were sanded with fine sandpaper. Remember to thoroughly rinse off any residue, otherwise new corrosion forms faster. After drying, applied special anti-oxidation grease, making the contact surfaces shiny. Once used cola in an emergency, it worked okay but not completely, leaving sugar residue that attracted dust. After finishing, the engine started much smoother, and the battery life extended significantly.
Battery terminal corrosion is essentially acid vapor crystallization, and the scientific treatment involves three steps: In the protection preparation phase, wear safety goggles and rubber gloves, as the electrolyte is corrosive and should not come into contact with the skin. The second step is neutralization with an alkaline solvent; a 1:10 mixture of baking soda and water works best, being more eco-friendly than commercial cleaners. During treatment, use a stiff brush at a 45-degree angle to scrape off the corrosion, avoiding damage to the lead terminals. After cleaning, always use a multimeter to check if the voltage is stable—I've seen cases where excessive cleaning caused poor contact. Finally, avoid using grease for protection as it melts and drips at high temperatures; specialized battery protectant forms a more durable film. This method has proven reliable on seven or eight cars.
