
Yes, you absolutely should use wheel chocks with car ramps. It is a critical safety practice. Wheel chocks act as a secondary safety measure, preventing the vehicle from rolling off the ramps if it slips from the parking brake or transmission park gear. This is non-negotiable for safe DIY like oil changes. The primary risk isn't the ramps failing, but the car accidentally rolling backward due to an insufficiently set parking brake or a slight incline in your garage. Using chocks is a simple, inexpensive step that significantly reduces the risk of a serious accident.
For optimal safety, place the chocks behind the rear wheels when you are driving the front wheels onto the ramps. If you're using ramps on the rear wheels, chock the front wheels. The chocks should be made of a durable material like solid rubber or polyurethane to prevent cracking and provide a strong grip on the floor surface. Always ensure the vehicle is in "Park" (or first gear for a manual) and firmly engage the parking brake before you start working. Never rely on the transmission alone to hold the vehicle.
The effectiveness of this system depends on the ramp's design and the chock's quality. Here’s a comparison of common scenarios:
| Scenario | Safety Level | Key Risk Factor | Recommended Chock Type |
|---|---|---|---|
| Ramps on level concrete, chocks used | High | Parking brake failure | Heavy-duty rubber chock |
| Ramps on slight incline, no chocks | Very Low | Vehicle rolling off ramps | N/A (unsafe practice) |
| Rhino Ramps on asphalt, chocks used | Moderate to High | Asphalt surface can soften on hot days | Wide-base polyurethane chock |
| Plastic ramps on gravel, no chocks | Extremely Low | Ramp instability and rolling risk | N/A (avoid this setup entirely) |
| Steel ramps on garage floor, chocks used | Very High | User error in placement | Steel-core rubber chock |

















Don't even think about getting under a car on ramps without them. I learned this the hard way years ago. My parking brake cable was a bit loose, and when I lifted the car, it rolled back just an inch—enough to scare me straight. Now, chocks are the first thing I grab from the garage shelf. It’s a two-second job that can stop a ton of trouble. Just wedge them tight against the tires that are still on the ground. It’s cheap for your safety.

From a safety protocol standpoint, using wheel chocks with ramps is a mandatory procedure. Organizations like OSHA would require this in a professional setting for a reason. The practice creates a redundant safety system. The parking brake and transmission are the primary restraints; the chocks are the secondary, physical barrier against movement. This layered approach is fundamental to risk mitigation. Always position the chocks to oppose the potential direction of roll, which is typically behind the downhill wheels.

Think of it like this: the ramps get your car up in the air, but the chocks are what make sure it stays there. You're creating a stable, three-point system: the two ramps and the chocks. If you're changing your oil and bump the car, or if the pavement has even a tiny slope, that car can shift. A good pair of chocks locks the wheels in place, so you can focus on your work without that worry in the back of your mind. It’s the difference between feeling nervous and feeling secure.

It's all about eliminating any chance of the car moving. Ramps are great, but they're a single point of failure if your parking brake isn't perfect. Chocks are your backup plan. Make sure you buy proper chocks, not just a block of wood. Modern ones are made from high-density rubber that won't slip on smooth garage floors. Before you crawl under, give the car a solid push. If it doesn't budge, you're good. If it rocks, readjust your chocks. That final check is as important as using them in the first place.


