···
Log in / Register

Will touching the line deduct points in a right-angle turn?

4 Answers
AubreeMarie
07/29/25 8:02pm

In theory, touching the line with the vehicle body in Subject 2 (off-road driving test) does not deduct points—note that this refers to touching the line, not crossing it. Crossing the line will definitely result in a 100-point deduction. Both right-angle turns and curve driving allow touching the line, as long as the wheels do not press against the road edge line. If the wheels press against the road edge line, 100 points will be deducted. The right-angle turn is an assessment point in Subject 2 of the driver's test, evaluating the driver's ability to correctly operate the steering and accurately judge the inner and outer wheel differences when driving through abrupt road changes. Here’s an introduction to the Subject 2 test: 1. Off-road driving (Subject 2) involves actual vehicle operation and is only graded as pass or fail. 2. It consists of 9 mandatory test items (all without poles), including reverse parking, narrow road U-turns, parallel parking, stopping and starting on a slope, right-angle turns, curve driving, emergency braking, tunnel driving, and toll booth card retrieval. 3. All nine mandatory items must be passed to successfully complete the Subject 2 test.

Was this review help?
18
3
Share
SanBrynlee
08/14/25 4:02pm

As someone who just passed the driving test, I'm very clear about this issue. During a 90-degree turn, if the wheels cross the line, it will definitely result in point deductions during the exam, especially in the Road Test (Subject 3). Typically, crossing the line leads to an immediate 100-point deduction causing failure, because examiners need to ensure drivers can safely change lanes and make turns – veering over the line may deviate from the correct lane and increase accident risks. During the test, maintain a moderate speed, usually 20-30 km/h, and consistently check mirrors and inner wheels to avoid crossing. For practice, find an open area to repeatedly simulate right-angle turns using marked lines to develop muscle memory and timing. Crossing lines not only causes exam failure but may also trigger traffic cameras for fines in real-world driving, especially at urban intersections. The key is practicing steering wheel control and early deceleration to prevent accidental line-crossing.

Was this review help?
11
0
Share
Expand All
JadeFitz
10/16/25 2:05am

Having driven for over a decade, my experience tells me that cutting corners on right-angle turns will indeed result in penalty points, not just during driving tests. In actual driving, if your wheels cross solid lines or pedestrian crossing lines, it's highly likely to be captured by traffic surveillance systems, leading to penalty points and fines, typically 3 points plus 200 yuan. Cutting corners is not only a rule violation but also dangerous—for instance, crossing lines while turning may scrape adjacent vehicles or obstruct pedestrians. It's best to slow down before turning, carefully observe your path, and ensure wheels stay within the lane's turning radius. On rainy days when roads are slippery, reduce speed further and avoid sharp steering. As a seasoned driver, I advise beginners to start with fundamentals: familiarize yourself with your vehicle's dimensions and turning radius, and never prioritize haste over safety details. This approach minimizes penalty risks and ensures safer driving.

Was this review help?
12
5
Share
Expand All
DiRichard
11/29/25 2:53am

When I was a driving instructor, I always emphasized this point: touching the line during a 90-degree turn will definitely result in points deduction. During the test, crossing the line leads to immediate failure with a 100-point deduction, aiming to teach students to adhere to lane rules and enhance safety awareness. Crossing the line can easily lead to loss of control or collision risks, hence the strict rules. During training, we teach students to drive slowly at the turning point, around 10 kilometers per hour, and to check the inner rearview mirror before gently turning the wheel to avoid the line. Regular practice in a simulated environment helps in trial and error to correct postures. Touching the line not only deducts points but also exposes technical shortcomings, so focus on strengthening basic training and don’t stress.

Was this review help?
15
1
Share
Expand All
More Forum Discussions

what is an expired tag on a car

An expired tag on a car means your vehicle's registration has passed its renewal date and is no longer valid. Driving with an expired tag is illegal and can result in fines, tickets, and even your car being impounded. The registration , often called the "tag," is the sticker on your license plate, and its expiration date is typically printed on it. You usually renew it annually through your state's Department of Motor Vehicles (DMV). The consequences escalate the longer you drive with an expired registration. You could be pulled over specifically for the expired tag, and the fine often increases after a short grace period (if your state offers one). In some areas, repeat offenses or excessively outdated registration can lead to your car being towed and impounded, adding significant costs for retrieval and storage. To renew, you'll generally need to provide proof of auto insurance and may need to pass an emissions test or a vehicle safety inspection, depending on your state's laws. The process can often be completed online, by mail, or in person at a DMV office. It's a straightforward task that prevents a lot of potential hassle. Most states offer a brief grace period after the expiration date, but the rules vary significantly. Here’s a look at the policies in a few states: State Grace Period Notes California None Tag expires on the last day of the registered month. Texas Up to 5 business days For renewal only; driving is still illegal during this time. Florida None Late fees apply immediately after the expiration date. New York None Enforcement begins immediately after expiration. Illinois None Vehicle is considered unregistered the day after expiration. The safest approach is to renew your registration before it expires. Check your specific state's DMV website for exact requirements, as fees, necessary documentation, and grace periods are not universal.
16
2
Share

what is a bill of sale on a car

A bill of sale is a legal document that serves as a receipt and proof of transfer of ownership for a vehicle from a seller to a buyer. It's not a title, but it is a critical piece of paperwork that records the transaction details. While the certificate of title is the primary document that proves legal ownership, the bill of sale acts as a supplemental record of the sale itself, including the date, price, and parties involved. Its importance varies by state. Some states require a bill of sale to register a vehicle, especially if it's a private-party sale, while others do not. Even if it's not mandatory, having one is highly recommended as it protects both the seller and the buyer. For the seller, it proves the car was sold "as-is," releasing them from future liability. For the buyer, it's proof of purchase price, which can be important for tax purposes or if the title is lost or delayed. A well-drafted bill of sale should include several key pieces of information: Vehicle Identification: Make, model, year, color, and most importantly, the Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) . Transaction Details: The sale date, odometer reading at the time of sale, and the final agreed-upon sale price. Party Information: The full names, addresses, and signatures of both the seller and the buyer. Common Bill of Sale Requirements by State (Examples) Is a Notary Required? Is it Mandatory for Registration? California No Yes, for private sales Texas No No, but strongly recommended Florida Yes Yes New York No Yes Ohio No No Always check with your local Department of Motor Vehicles (DMV) for the specific requirements in your state, as they can differ significantly. You can often find official bill of sale forms on your state's DMV website.
7
5
Share

what is a knock sensor in a car

A knock sensor is a small electronic device mounted on the engine block that listens for abnormal combustion noises known as engine knock or pinging . Its primary job is to detect these harmful sounds and send a signal to the engine control unit (ECU), which then adjusts the ignition timing to prevent engine damage. Think of it as your engine's built-in guardian against bad fuel and excessive strain. Engine knock occurs when fuel ignites prematurely from compression rather than the spark plug's spark. This creates a violent, high-pressure shockwave that can damage pistons, rings, and cylinder heads over time. The knock sensor contains a piezoelectric crystal that generates a small voltage when vibrated by these specific high-frequency vibrations. The ECU interprets this signal and instantly retards the spark timing, effectively silencing the knock and protecting the engine. Feature/Specification Typical Details Primary Function Detect engine knock/pinging Location Mounted on the engine block, often near the cylinder head Signal Type Generates an AC voltage signal proportional to vibration intensity ECU Response Retards ignition timing by several degrees Common Symptom of Failure Loss of power, poor fuel economy, illuminated check engine light (often code P0325) Replacement Cost $200-$450 (part + labor); the part itself is often $50-$150 A properly functioning knock sensor is crucial for both performance and longevity. It allows modern engines to run efficiently on regular-grade gasoline by actively compensating for low-octane fuel that is more prone to detonation. If it fails, the ECU will default to a very conservative ignition timing map, causing noticeable performance issues and increased fuel consumption to protect the engine.
13
3
Share

what is excess on car insurance

Car insurance excess (also known as a deductible) is the fixed amount you agree to pay out-of-pocket toward a claim before your insurance coverage kicks in. It's a standard feature of most policies, designed to share risk between you and the insurer and to discourage small, frequent claims. There are two main types: a compulsory excess set by your insurer and a voluntary excess you can choose to lower your premium. Think of it like this: if you have a covered accident causing $3,000 in damage and your policy has a $500 excess, you pay the first $500, and your insurer covers the remaining $2,500. The key is that the excess applies per claim. Choosing your excess level is a financial balancing act. Opting for a higher voluntary excess will typically lower your monthly or annual premium because you're taking on more financial responsibility. However, this means you must be confident you can afford that larger amount if you need to make a claim. A lower excess results in a higher premium but less financial shock at the time of an incident. It's crucial to understand that the excess only applies to claims under your own comprehensive or collision coverage. It generally does not apply to claims made against your liability insurance when you're at fault for damaging someone else's property or injuring them—their damages are covered by your policy without an excess payment from you. Some policies may also waive the excess for specific situations, like windshield repair. Scenario Typical Excess Range Notes Standard Compulsory Excess $250 - $1,000 Varies by insurer, driver age, and experience. Voluntary Excess (Optional) $0 - $2,000+ Choosing $0 voluntary excess leads to a higher premium. Young/Inexperienced Driver $500 - $2,000 Compulsory excess is often higher for this risk group. Windscreen Repair/Replacement $0 - $250 Often has a separate, lower excess or is waived. Theft Claim $500 - $1,000 Applies to the comprehensive portion of your policy. At-Fault Accident Your full excess amount You pay the excess to repair your own vehicle. Not-At-Fault Accident Often $0 If the at-fault driver is identified, their insurance should cover your costs, including your excess.
10
1
Share

what is an aftermarket car part

An aftermarket car part is any component not made by your vehicle's original manufacturer (OEM). These parts are produced by third-party companies and are used as replacements or upgrades. While often more affordable than OEM parts, the aftermarket offers a vast range of options, from basic, budget-friendly replacements to high-performance upgrades that can exceed the original part's capabilities. The key advantage is choice and cost. You can often find a part that fits your specific budget and performance needs. However, quality can vary dramatically. Some aftermarket parts are certified by organizations like the Automotive Aftermarket Suppliers Association (AASA) to meet or exceed OEM standards, while uncertified parts may be less reliable. It's crucial to understand the different types of aftermarket parts. OEM-quality parts are designed to match the original's fit and function. Performance parts , like a cold air intake or a performance exhaust system, are engineered to increase horsepower or improve handling. Appearance parts include items like custom wheels or body kits. When considering an aftermarket part, research is essential. Check for reviews, brand reputation, and any relevant warranties. For critical safety components like brakes or suspension parts, opting for certified quality is highly recommended. Part Type OEM Cost (Avg.) Quality Aftermarket Cost (Avg.) Potential Savings Common Certification Brake Rotors (Pair) $250 - $400 $120 - $250 up to 50% CAPA, ISO 9001 Air Filter $40 - $60 $15 - $30 50-60% AASA Headlight Assembly $500 - $1000 $200 - $600 up to 60% CAPA Performance Exhaust $1,200 - $3,000 $800 - $2,000 30-40% None (brand-dependent) Shock Absorber $150 - $300 $80 - $180 up to 50% ISO/TS 16949
17
5
Share

what is a full tune up on a car

A full tune-up is a comprehensive maintenance service focused on restoring your car's engine performance and fuel efficiency. It traditionally involved replacing key ignition and fuel system components like spark plugs, ignition wires, distributor cap, and rotor. Today, for modern cars, it's less about a standard package and more about performing all the manufacturer-recommended services at a specific mileage interval (e.g., 60,000 or 100,000 miles). This ensures the engine runs smoothly, maintains good gas mileage, and prevents more costly repairs down the road. The core services in a modern full tune-up typically include replacing the spark plugs , which are responsible for igniting the air-fuel mixture in the cylinders. Worn plugs can cause misfires, rough idling, and difficulty starting. The engine air filter is also replaced to ensure optimal airflow, as a clogged filter makes the engine work harder. Many shops will also inspect and possibly replace the fuel filter and PCV (Positive Crankcase Ventilation) valve to maintain proper fuel delivery and engine ventilation. A critical part of a modern tune-up is a computerized system scan. This checks for any stored diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs) and allows the technician to verify that all engine sensors are functioning correctly. They will also often clean the throttle body to prevent sluggish acceleration. The goal is a synergistic refresh of these systems to return your vehicle to its peak operating condition. Common Tune-Up Components Purpose Typical Replacement Interval (Miles) Spark Plugs Ignites air/fuel mixture for combustion 30,000 - 100,000+ Engine Air Filter Protects engine from contaminants; ensures clean airflow 15,000 - 30,000 Fuel Filter Screens impurities from the fuel before it reaches the engine 30,000 - 60,000 Cabin Air Filter Cleans air entering the passenger compartment 15,000 - 25,000 Ignition Coils Amplifies voltage to fire the spark plugs (replaced as needed) 100,000+ It's not a one-size-fits-all service. Always consult your vehicle's owner's manual for the manufacturer's specific maintenance schedule tailored to your model.
8
4
Share
Cookie
Cookie Settings
© 2025 Servanan International Pte. Ltd.