
Long-term non-use of motorcycle batteries can cause damage: Vehicle lead-acid batteries belong to the type that requires maintaining a relatively high voltage. If the motorcycle is not ridden for an extended period, it will lead to power loss, rapid aging and decomposition of the lead plates, and evaporation of the electrolyte. Basically, a battery left on the motorcycle for more than six months without any maintenance can be considered scrap. When a motorcycle battery is not used for a long time, it is best to unscrew the positive and negative terminal screws and charge the battery at least once a month. When you need to use it next time, simply reattach the positive and negative terminal screws. The function of a motorcycle battery is to store a certain amount of electricity, which is used to provide power to the starter motor the next time the vehicle is started. Additionally, the starter motor has certain voltage requirements, needing at least 12V to drive it, thereby enabling the motorcycle to start.

I've been riding motorcycles for over a decade, and leaving a battery unused for too long can indeed render it useless. Even when not in use, batteries self-discharge at a rate of over 10% per month, especially lead-acid ones. Once when I was away on business for three months, I returned to find the bike completely unresponsive when I turned the key. Upon checking, the voltage had dropped to 8V, making it impossible to recharge. Worse yet, the internal plates had sulfated and clumped together, rendering the battery completely dead. My advice is to disconnect the negative terminal if the bike won't be used for more than two weeks. If you have garage access, it's best to hook it up to a charger for a couple of hours each month. A smart charger with pulse repair function costs just a few dozen bucks. Modified bikes require extra attention—those equipped with GPS anti-theft devices are particularly power-hungry, and prolonged inactivity is practically a battery killer.

In my garage, there are three vintage motorcycles, and even with rotating rides, I've encountered dead batteries. Batteries are like living things; prolonged disuse leads to a slow death. Chemical sedimentation causes irreversible sulfation, and electrolyte stratification can corrode the electrode plates. Recently, during the rainy season, the humidity has been high, and the metal terminals oxidize particularly quickly. I make it a habit to fully charge the battery and disconnect the negative terminal before winter, so it starts right up when reconnected in spring. If you don't have a charger, at least idle the engine for 20 minutes once a month, and check the battery's inspection window color while you're at it—if it turns white, it's time for a replacement. Remember, never jump-start with a car battery; motorcycle batteries are quite delicate.

Battery engineers share a little-known fact: Long-term storage in sub-zero temperatures may cause the electrolyte to freeze and crack the casing. Northern car owners should especially be wary of physical damage caused by temperature fluctuations. My shop frequently receives distress calls where battery leakage corrodes the chassis with rust spots. When removing batteries, it's advisable to first neutralize terminal acid with baking soda solution - if you hear liquid sloshing when shaking it upside down, the battery isn't completely dry. While lithium batteries now offer better storage tolerance, they're more expensive. Ordinary lead-acid batteries costing around 200 yuan typically last two years at most - it's better to sell them for some return if planning long-term inactivity rather than letting them deteriorate.


