
If the rust layer is not completely removed before touch-up painting, the car will continue to rust over time. Causes of Rust: Rust mainly occurs when the metal body is exposed to the external environment after scratches, or due to small stones hitting the car body while driving. Long-term outdoor parking can also lead to rust. Additionally, areas prone to water accumulation, such as the inner and outer edges of the wheel arches, the bottom of doors and trunk, and corners, are more susceptible to rust over time. Methods to Deal with Car Paint Rust: First, use very fine sandpaper dipped in water to gently remove the rust spots, then clean it thoroughly and apply a layer of primer to prevent the rust from spreading or worsening. Alternatively, you can purchase a touch-up pen. After the primer dries, sand it smooth with fine sandpaper and then use the touch-up pen for color matching.

Will a car still rust after touch-up painting? It depends on how the rust is treated. With decades of auto repair experience, I've seen countless cases: if rust isn't thoroughly removed and only hastily covered with paint, it will silently spread beneath, especially in humid areas or coastal regions. For instance, when a car door panel rusts, you must first grind away all rust traces, then seal the pores with anti-rust primer before applying topcoat. Otherwise, rust spots will reappear within months, potentially eating through the metal. Last year, a client opted for cheap touch-up without rust removal, resulting in chassis perforation six months later and costly repairs. I recommend professional shops for complete rust treatment, followed by regular washing and waxing to protect against rain and salt corrosion. Properly done, touch-up paint can last 5-6 years rust-free, safeguarding your vehicle's integrity.

I have plenty of DIY touch-up painting experience—it definitely saves money but doesn't guarantee rust prevention. When my car's rear wheel arch rusted, I sprayed paint directly without thorough sanding the first time, only for the rust marks to reappear after summer downpours, forcing a redo. The proper process is: scrape off loose rust, sand smooth, apply rust-proof primer for adhesion, wait to dry, then topcoat. Using rust inhibitor worked well—no recurrence for three years. Environmental factors matter: in high-salt or snowy areas, pressure-wash wheel wells and undercarriage monthly post-repair, and avoid parking on damp surfaces. Done right, rust won’t return; sloppy work worsens it, eventually compromising structural integrity. Cost-wise, DIY halves expenses but consumes time—best for those with spare hours.

As a new car owner, I'm always worried about rust spreading after a paint touch-up. Experienced drivers told me that if rust isn't completely removed before repainting—like just hastily covering it up—the rust could continue to damage from within. The key is whether the rust was properly sanded off and primed before repainting; otherwise, the new paint may peel or show color differences. In northern regions, the use of de-icing salt makes recurrence more likely, so it's recommended to rinse off mud and water after parking. After touch-ups, closely observe the paint's smoothness—uneven surfaces or bubbles indicate poor treatment. Such areas have weak rust resistance, allowing rust to spread to door frames or wheel wells. In short, choose a reliable shop for thorough treatment, then maintain regularly (like washing monthly) to prevent rust. Don't take it lightly and ruin your car's body.


