Why is there a jerk when shifting from D to N gear?
4 Answers
Damaged solenoid valves are a major cause of jerking. Below are relevant introductions regarding vehicle gear shifting: 1. Precautions: When downshifting, the method of double-clutching plus one empty throttle should be adopted. The principle of downshifting with empty throttle is: the faster the speed, the larger the "empty throttle"; the slower the speed, the smaller the "empty throttle"; the lower the engine speed, the larger the "empty throttle"; the higher the engine speed, the smaller the "empty throttle"; on flat roads, the "empty throttle" is larger, while uphill it is smaller. 2. Techniques: Gear shifting should be timely, accurate, smooth, and swift. When starting the car, generally use the low gear (first gear) to start. After starting, as long as road conditions permit, quickly and timely shift up to higher gears level by level.
I had a similar experience with my old automatic transmission car before, it felt like a sudden loss of power from the transmission. This is mainly caused by the complex hydraulic system inside the transmission. When in D gear, the engine's power is fully transmitted to the wheels, but shifting to N gear instantly cuts off the power transmission. If the RPM hasn't dropped yet or the solenoid valve is slow to react, the gears can clash and make a clunking sound. This is especially common in high-mileage cars, where dirty transmission fluid can clog the filter or carbon buildup can cause solenoid valves to stick. The funniest case I've seen was at a repair shop, where the technician found that the shift linkage was lacking grease, causing rough shifting due to insufficient lubrication. When driving, it's a good habit to fully brake before shifting, giving the transmission some buffer time. And if stopping for more than 30 seconds, I always shift to N and engage the handbrake to let the transmission rest.
This shuddering sensation is all too familiar—my family's SUV started experiencing it just after hitting 50,000 kilometers. Later, when the mechanic inspected it, the key issue was traced to the torque converter. The lock-up clutch inside remains engaged when in Drive (D), and if it doesn't disengage promptly when shifting to Neutral (N), you'll feel that sudden jerk. While newer cars might handle it better, those of us buying used vehicles need to pay extra attention to the transmission fluid condition. If metal shavings or moisture contaminate the fluid, causing it to degrade, the hydraulic pressure can't keep up, and the control valves lag—inevitably leading to shuddering. Once at a highway rest stop, I encountered something even more bizarre: unstable battery voltage disrupted the ECU signals, throwing the entire gear-shifting logic into chaos. Developing good maintenance habits is crucial. I inspect the transmission every 20,000 kilometers and follow the onboard computer's prompts for fluid changes.
When driving the company's old Buick, the issue was particularly noticeable—every time I shifted from D to N, there was a loud clunk. A mechanic friend explained that automatic transmissions rely on the entire hydraulic oil circuit system to function, and unstable pressure is a sure sign of trouble. There are usually two common causes: either the hydraulic control valve is sticking, causing delayed oil circuit switching, or the piston seals in the accumulator are aging and leaking pressure. The transmission control unit (TCU) collects engine speed signals to predict shift timing, but if the sensor wiring is loose or throttle carbon buildup interferes with the signal, the TCU miscalculates the timing. This happens most often in city traffic jams, where frequent engine speed fluctuations overwhelm the TCU's response. His advice: when stopping at a red light, just hold the brake instead of shifting—constant short-term gear changes do more harm to the transmission.
