
Natural gas vehicles often experience insufficient power primarily due to the lack of engine modifications during the conversion process. When converting a vehicle to run on natural gas, the engine is typically left unchanged to accommodate both fuel types (gasoline and natural gas). As a result, the vehicle's power output when using natural gas is usually reduced by 5-15% compared to gasoline. Solutions to address the lack of power in natural gas vehicles are as follows: 1. Solution 1: Increase the ignition timing by 12 to 17 degrees from the original setting. Natural gas itself has stable chemical properties, a higher ignition point than gasoline, and burns slower. Advancing the ignition timing can help reduce power loss. 2. Solution 2: Upgrade to a high-energy ignition system by installing a better ignition coil. Since the flame propagation of natural gas is slower than gasoline, this modification ensures more complete combustion of natural gas, thereby improving vehicle power.

If you feel the throttle getting heavier and struggling to climb hills in a natural gas vehicle, it's mostly due to insufficient gas pressure or clogged injector nozzles. I experienced this before—the engine roared but didn't accelerate, and after inspection, I found the gas filter was completely clogged with impurities after half a year without replacement. Power returned immediately after replacing it. If the spark plug gap is too wide, it can also cause poor ignition since natural gas requires stronger ignition energy. By the way, remember to check if the gas pressure gauge reads below 0.2MPa—when pressure is insufficient, the ECU limits power output to protect the engine. Don’t ignore such issues; it’s best to visit a conversion shop early to read fault codes with a diagnostic tool. Also, check the pressure reducer and gas lines for leaks—after all, a natural gas leak is no joke.

The sluggish acceleration of natural gas vehicles may be related to the fuel switching timing. I've driven a dual-fuel taxi before - when running on gasoline during cold starts, the power was normal, but after switching to gas, the engine couldn't gain momentum once RPM reached 3000. Later, the mechanic found it was caused by data drift in the gas ECU, which triggered premature switching back to gasoline at 2000 RPM. Some older vehicles with severely carbon-fouled oxygen sensors can cause an overly rich air-fuel mixture, resulting in incomplete combustion of natural gas and naturally weaker power. Remember to drive at high RPM for a few kilometers each month to clean carbon deposits, and focus on cleaning the throttle body and fuel injectors during maintenance. If acceleration becomes jerky, check if the high-voltage ignition coils have aged - natural gas is harder to ignite than gasoline.

Encountering power loss in a natural gas vehicle? Check these three areas first: The most common issue is icing in the gas pressure regulator. When using AC in summer or driving in rainy weather, frost may form on the regulator valve, blocking the gas line. After driving for half an hour, stop and touch the regulator housing—if it's icy cold and dripping water, that's the culprit. Next, check if the air filter is too dirty, as natural gas engines are more sensitive to air intake volume. Finally, try switching to gasoline mode. If power returns to normal, engine mechanical failure can likely be ruled out. As a side note, aging solenoid valve coils in the gas system can also cause unstable fuel supply. For such components, genuine parts are recommended—aftermarket parts with unstable voltage may lead to sudden power loss.

Is your natural gas vehicle losing power? These hidden issues might be the cause: A damaged pressure reducer diaphragm can cause gas pressure fluctuations; excessively long fuel injection lines (over 5 meters) may create vapor lock; aging injector rail seals can lead to gas leaks. Especially in modified vehicles, improper wiring arrangements where high-voltage cables are too close to gas pipelines can cause electromagnetic interference. The most troublesome issue is poor-quality gas—some small refueling stations supply gas with excessive sulfur content, which can corrode injection nozzles in just two to three months. It's recommended to install a gas quality detector and adopt these maintenance habits: clean the gas valve body every 30,000 kilometers and replace high-voltage cables every 50,000 kilometers. Don't wait until the vehicle completely loses power to make repairs—sudden stalling can be very dangerous.


