
Car air conditioning not cooling may be due to a broken compressor, or it could be a faulty compressor clutch. When the car air conditioning is in cooling mode, the compressor clutch engages, and the engine drives the compressor to operate. The compressor continuously compresses the refrigerant and delivers it to the evaporator. Inside the evaporator, the refrigerant expands and absorbs heat, thereby cooling the evaporator. The air blown by the blower passes through the evaporator, where the cooled evaporator cools the air, allowing the air conditioning vents to blow cold air. If the compressor is broken, it cannot compress the refrigerant or deliver it to the evaporator.

Last time my car's AC wasn't cooling either, and it turned out the condenser was clogged with willow catkins when I took it to my regular repair shop. The veteran mechanic said this happens a lot in summer - when the radiator fins get blocked, cooling efficiency drops by 30% immediately. If you hear the compressor clicking on and off frequently, it's probably low on refrigerant. Here's a little trick: turn off the AC and switch to external air circulation at red lights to reduce engine load. By the way, my cousin's car had an even weirder issue last year - the blower motor resistor burned out, causing no airflow from the vents. For such hidden faults, it's best to use a diagnostic scanner. I recommend getting it checked early - driving in mid-summer feels like being in a steamer.

My old car's air conditioning is acting up intermittently. When cooling performance drops, I first check the high-pressure pipe. Normally it should be warm to the touch - if it's scalding hot, it might indicate overcharged refrigerant or poor heat dissipation. Once, a coin stuck in the seatbelt fell into the AC control panel and actually caused poor contact in the AC switch. Now during every maintenance, I ask the mechanic to thoroughly inspect the condenser and evaporator, especially after long trips when they're often covered with insect remains. Remember to replace the cabin air filter regularly - last time the filter I pulled out was dirtier than a cleaning rag. Actually, aging seals at pipe connections can also cause slow refrigerant leaks. These small parts are inexpensive to replace but significantly impact performance.

For long-distance drivers, an AC breakdown can be life-threatening. After experiencing refrigerant leakage, I now keep fluorescent leak detector in my car. Last time when the compressor clutch slipped, the tachometer showed slight fluctuations at idle. I recommend observing frosting on AC pipes - localized frosting may indicate expansion valve blockage. Those with modified grilles should note that overly dense mesh can affect condenser heat dissipation. A recent trick I discovered: after sun exposure, opening windows for ventilation before turning on the AC doubles cooling speed. For vehicles over 5 years old, a thorough AC system cleaning every two years is advisable.

Last time I helped the neighbor girl check her air conditioning, I found that the fan resistor in her Mini had burned out. These compact cars have limited space for heat dissipation, so it's important to pay extra attention when the air conditioning frequently shuts off in traffic jams. In fact, the decline in cooling performance is a gradual process—if the air vent temperature exceeds 8°C, it's time for a check-up. I make it a habit to remove and clean the AC filter every month to blow out dust, and once I unexpectedly found leaves clogging the drain pipe, which caused a bad odor inside the car. Owners who have modified their lighting systems should be aware that additional electrical equipment may cause voltage instability, affecting the compressor's operation. In emergencies, you can use the recirculation mode with all four windows fully open to cool down the car—it's not as effective as the AC but can help prevent heatstroke.


