
If one wheel of the car is not turning, it is usually caused by the following reasons: 1. Pulling the handbrake tightly after washing the car: In winter, do not pull the handbrake tightly after washing the car, as this can easily cause the rear wheels to freeze, resulting in one tire turning while the other does not. 2. Not maintaining the wheel bearings: This can cause the bearing cage to deteriorate and lock the axle, leading to one tire turning while the other does not. 3. Rear wheels with drum brakes: There are two brake shoes inside. When the inner brake shoe is severely worn and not replaced in time, it can easily cause the brake shoe to lock, resulting in one wheel turning while the other does not. 4. Rear wheels with disc brakes: Check if the brake fluid circuit is blocked, causing the caliper to lock the brake disc, which results in one wheel turning while the other does not.

As an auto mechanic, I've removed plenty of wheels. When a single wheel won't turn, it's usually due to mechanical seizure. Last week, there was a Focus with its left front wheel locked up—the owner drove it hard for two kilometers until the rim was smoking. Upon disassembly, we found the brake caliper piston rusted solid, with the brake pads welded to the disc. Another common issue is a burnt-out wheel hub bearing, which sounds like sandpaper grinding metal when rotating. For 4WD vehicles, it's more complicated—problems with the transfer case or differential can also cause a single wheel to fail. Here's a quick diagnostic tip: jack up the car and try turning the wheel by hand. If it's stiff and makes strange noises, it's likely a bearing issue. If it stops after half a turn, it's probably a stone stuck in the brake pads or a faulty brake caliper retraction. But remember, never imitate that owner by forcing the car to drive—overheated rims can ignite the tire pressure sensor wiring!

Last month, the right rear wheel of my old Jetta suddenly stopped turning. At first, I thought the handbrake was frozen, but at the repair shop, we found the handbrake cable had rusted into a twisted mess. The mechanic said road salt in northern winters is particularly harsh on the undercarriage - the cable sheath cracked, let water in, and the rusted steel wire expanded until it completely seized. I've learned my lesson now - I park in gear instead of using the handbrake whenever possible. Another common issue is brake drums freezing after getting wet. Last year, my coworker's minivan had all four wheels frozen solid - took three big kettles of hot water to thaw them out. Reminder to everyone: don't park outside immediately after washing your car in subzero temperatures, as water in the brake drums can indeed freeze into solid blocks. Oh, and when towing, remember to put the transmission in neutral and release the handbrake - last year, a repair shop dragged a locked-wheel car by force and ended up stripping the teeth off the transmission gears!

The biggest fear on long-distance trips is a single wheel locking up. Last week on the Shanghai-Kunming Expressway, I saw a semi-trailer with smoke coming from its right wheel—experienced drivers know it's due to bearing lubrication failure and overheating. Here’s how to identify it by sound: a humming noise at speeds above 80 km/h that changes pitch when decelerating should raise alarm. If the wheel hub feels scalding hot, don’t pour water on it—the extreme temperature difference can cause cracks! Last month, a truck had an even weirder issue: the right front wheel hesitated during left turns, and repairs revealed a deformed steering knuckle arm pressing against the axle. Such hidden dangers are extremely hazardous on the road. It’s advised to promptly inspect the wheel hub reducer and ABS tone ring clearance, especially for vehicles frequently braking on mountain roads.


