Why does the fan keep running after the old Sagitar is turned off?
4 Answers
The engine fan of the Sagitar continues to run after the car is turned off, which is controlled by the temperature sensor. Therefore, the fan will keep running even after the engine is off. It will stop once the temperature drops and the sensor cuts off the power. Unless it takes too long, the fan will stop working. Check if the sensor is damaged. More relevant information is as follows: Note 1: The fan in the car serves a cooling function. So, when the coolant temperature is too high after parking, the onboard computer will automatically calculate the fan's speed and duration. The higher the temperature, the longer the fan will run to protect the engine. Therefore, there's no need to worry—it's a normal phenomenon. Note 2: If the fan runs for an excessively long time and the engine temperature has already dropped but the fan still keeps running, it might be due to a loose circuit connection. You can try disconnecting the fan's wiring harness for a separate power cut-off treatment.
As a long-time Sagitar owner, I've encountered this situation several times. The fan running at full speed after engine shutdown is primarily for engine cooling protection - the ECU keeps it operating if it detects insufficient temperature drop. The most common causes are insufficient coolant in the radiator or clogged cooling fins by insects/poplar fluff. It could also be a faulty temperature sensor falsely reporting high temps after proper cooling. Once my car had this issue due to a stuck thermostat preventing coolant circulation. Additionally, excessive AC system pressure can trigger protective fan operation. I recommend first checking coolant level and radiator cleanliness yourself. If it lasts over 3 minutes, better have a workshop inspect the electrical circuits and sensors.
Having repaired cars for over a decade, I've encountered many Volkswagen models with the issue of fans not stopping after engine shutdown. There are two core reasons: one is overheating protection, and the other is electrical circuit faults. Older cars' cooling systems are prone to problems, such as insufficient water pump speed, ineffective coolant causing slow heat dissipation, or burnt and stuck contacts in the fan relay. Focus on checking the relay box location, which is inside the engine compartment fuse box. Use a multimeter to measure the voltage of the fan control circuit, as sometimes a short circuit can cause erratic behavior. Lack of lubrication in the electric fan bearings can also lead to jamming. I recommend first unplugging the fan connector and restarting to test. If that doesn't work, replacing the relay is a simple and inexpensive fix, costing just a few tens of dollars.
The fan running non-stop is actually quite dangerous, as it drains the battery and damages it. Common causes include deteriorated coolant, clogged radiator, or electronic control system failure. For older cars, pay special attention to three things: check if the water tank cap seal has aged, inspect whether the temperature sensor wiring is oxidized, and test if the generator voltage is stable. Additionally, modified wiring can easily cause this issue. Once, it was found that the fan control module was short-circuited due to water ingress, and drying it after disassembly fixed the problem. It is advised not to forcibly pull the fuse, as it may lead to more severe ECU damage.
